I would pick 20 and do a second pass. 15 looks great, and 10 has a little underextrusion, so anything below 10 is not good.

I’m with you. I never know which one to pick. Would love to know if someone has put together a complete guide on how to determine the best one.

both 15 look pretty good. But with recent printers, I don't see these tests doing anything anymore.

Did you measure any of them?

Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! click here for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup.

Here are a few questions that might be helpful

• What printer are you using?

• What material are you using?

• What speed are you printing at?

• What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer?

• When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly?

• Does anything cause the behavior to change?

• If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)

If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on reddiquette, self promotion, and spam.

Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem!

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Live tables are all about rhythm. If HD wobbles or dealer pace slows, I back out immediately. I also keep a 45 minute timer and two lines: stop loss at three buy ins, take profit at two. Basic strategy only, no side bets, and I log stake changes so I do not chase. Payments wise, I prefer e wallets or crypto with KYC done before deposit. Clean UI plus predictable rules beats any cinematic lobby.

License and RTP first. Banners later. Solid checklist.

Thank you for posting to r/WiseCryptoGambler! If you’re new here, please check out the Community Wiki. It includes the subreddit rules, tips on responsible gambling, trusted casinos by region, and helpful resources for beginners.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Timer on, read T&Cs, bounce if terms change mid session.

Its a good price for sure, but i have a 2019 with 70k kms and i would buy at least a 2020/2021.

I have some transmission downshift problems and overall not as smooth as my friends 2020 320i drives. I did all the maintenance but its getting not better (engine mounts, trans oil, spark plus).

If you test drive it, check if the downshifts are smooth when you brake to stop.

Was looking at this one the other day. There's a warning light in the dash, I believe, and this one has the Driving Assistance Professional package with cruise control that relies on your eyes and not your hands. Pretty rare to see on a 330i.

But it's still a cheap BMW, and while I don't consider 60k miles a lot, if you're worried about the price, keep in mind the upkeep. Things break when you don't follow maintenance schedules, and at 60k, it is probably due for some fluid changes and hardware. Brakes, rotors, and tires should be coming up if not done already.

Other than that, I'd totally get it for that price.

Hi Worldliness-Diligent! You've flaired this post as seeking buying advice. Please reply to this automod with a link to the listing, which might help other users give a more complete and comprehensive answer. This is not mandatory.

Expand comments to automod to see listing

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Also has clean carfax with 11 service reports and no accidents

Just bought a 2019 530e w/ 70k miles for $23000. I'd keep shopping. 530i are going for around 19k-22k with 50-70k miles in georgia.

I think the 6 series are the most underrated and overlooked bmw’s . When I had my 650 you wouldn’t believe the number of people who were surprised I had a V8. It’s so forgotten that I had one dude no BS ask me is it a M3.

One of, if not the best all around design BMW has ever had, imo.

Gorgeous car! I have a 6-Speed F13, and couldn’t agree more! The whole design is so beautiful. Drives amazing. Interior is about perfect in my opinion, plenty of cool tech, but not just loaded with screens like the new cars.

I would say no because of how praised this is for being the best looking/(one of) modern bmw out there

Man, unpopular opinion but its my fav design after the E60

If you like the 330, a great inbetween that and the crazy power of the Ms is the 335. It is more powerful with an inline 6 and had a twin turbo up to 2010 and a single turbo up till 2015.

I owned a 2008 335xi brand new and sold it earlier this year. Lasted me 17 years and 155K miles.

Pretty clean example of the 335is. Not gonna be the most reliable but if you’re willing to do maintenance it’s ok. Also auto m240i with about 80-100k miles is going to be in that range and then you get the b58 which is reliable

If you want fast it’s gonna have to be a 6 cylinder turbo.

So look for anything with 35i in the name. 2013-2016 235i would be my pick. 335i for 4 doors, 435i for bigger coupe, nicer interior more comfort.

The engine is N55. It’s reasonably reliable.

If you want newer car and can find something within 20k then anything with 30i in the name is gonna be similar to the car you drive. 4 cylinder turbo, B48 engine. Also reliable. Same models. 230i small coupe, 330i sedan, 430i bigger coupe.

I’d stay away from 28i models. They are also turbo 4 cylinder and will be cheaper but it’s the previous generation engine that had issues. Model years towards the end of production are supposed to be better but if I had a choice I would still pay extra for the 30i model.

M235i with 75k~ miles are usually sub 20k

I appreciate your opinion on the n54, when did bmw start putting those into the g20 330’s?

N54’s get a bad rep because the platform got cheap. It’s not the b58, or in your case b48, when it comes to reliability, but people act like these things are just money pits. All the issues have been identified with guides and videos everywhere on how to fix it. Injectors are the bad one, but most else is pretty manageable.

2/3/435i or 2/3/440i. With M-Performance package. I own one of them myself also. Best bang for the buck car for sure.

35d is even faster, quicker to 60 than the 40i of its respective year. Didn’t realise this until 2 weeks ago when I was just about keeping up with a 335d

Correct, the regular 335i got the N55 during those production years but the 335is got the N54.

This shit is crazy lmao, why would anyone recommend N54 with all the HPFP issues

Unless you’re willing to do your own work, don’t.

If you’re looking at the used luxury market, Lexus is going to be your best bet. German vehicles are infamous for maintenance headaches. As a “poor high schooler”, a 10yo 3-series with 100k miles is going to be… frustrating. I’d explore used Lexus IS vehicles.

Nothing more expensive then a cheap German sports car

How are your wrenching skills? Are you engine swap or oil change type of guy?

If you can do basically all of the maintenance yourself, a BMW might be an option. You could probably get a half decent E46 with that budget and have money leftover for parts. Definitely wouldn't recommend a German if you're gonna be taking it to a shop though

btw looking at facebook marketplace

anything German including BMW is not going to be cheap on maintenance/repairs

As someone that owns an older BMW (1997) I can confidently say: It depends, but generally no.

It’s the extra maintenance associated with owning a BMW that a lot of owners neglect that makes them unreliable. You have roughly double or 1.5x the maintenance of your average Toyota or ford or Chevrolet or what have you, and a lot of people see a cheap BMW that’s of the same year Japanese/American car and think “I can have that for the same price!” But it’s really not, because you have to spend the purchase price x2 to make it reliable. People don’t factor that cost in, it falls into disrepair, then they sell a car that’s falling apart for Pennie’s to a scrapyard or run it until the wheels fall off and then complain.

I drove a 2003 325i for 10 years and put 135k more miles on it. 255k when I sold it and the engine and transmission were still solid. It never saw a mechanic that wasn’t me.

That said it was a pain in my ass

I now drive a Honda and have to invent reasons to open the hood.

That’s a very generalized statement, probably depends on the model/year/etc. They had some that were a bit unreliable, and some that are bulletproof. I don’t think you can lump BMW as a whole together. Just like any manufacturer. Honda has made some very reliable cars, and some unreliable cars.

This is not true at all. Internet is full of videos of actual mechanics saying how unreliable BMW is, pointing out concrete problems, such as oil leaks.

I'm from Germany and worked in a garage for a couple years here. I can support your statement for almost every EU brand. There are some absolutely bulletproof models from BMW but also some shit. The same can even be said for FIAT, Renault etc. as an example. Yes, it's not as safe as buying a Toyota, Honda, Suzuki ... where let's say, over half of their model range are bullet proof. With EU brands, I'd say around one third or a little less of their models have the reliability of their Japanese competitors.

For the German brands, their complexity adds to their reliability issues. More things in the car= more things to break. So, a very barebones BMW with a proven engine and transmission will take you forever.

Toyota, Honda, Mazda all make reliable and safe vehicles. They may not be the coolest, but you don't want to be busting your ass just to afford repairs on a BMW. I'd be looking at Civics, Corollas and Mazda 3s.

Whatever car you end up getting be sure to have it inspected by a mechanic. You don't want to buy someone else's headache.

I absolutely love BMW's and have owned several, but that is not a car you want at 17 yo. It will absolutely bleed you dry with maintenance costs. I totally get wanting one, but unless you have expendable income, I don't recommend it at all.

Mazda3.

That BMW might be a bit too steep of a curve for your first car. Especially with finances in the event it needs anything in the near term. There is a risk attached to it you have to consider. Or, if the car all checks out and you aren’t stretched financially thin not only to own it, but also to afford the running costs (including hefty insurance) - go for it.

There's nothing more expensive than a used BMW. It'll cost you a shit ton down the road. If you cannot afford two of it, you cannot afford it.

I'm here for the prohibitive insurance costs, a BMW at 17 years old is gonna cost a fortune to insure.

As a European, I think you need to refine that statement with "Nothing more expensive than an old cheap german sedan/coupe", atleast that's what we say here

Mobile mechanic here, most of my business does indeed come from starter cars that was impressive then turned expensive real quick.

Didn’t think about this before getting an Audi. Definitely hurts a bit even being 27 with no accidents or tickets.