You do what you gotta do, Larry Craig

Raceface is good - my turbine cranks have held up well

I have Canfield 155 cranks and they’re solid.

Even though shimano had to recall millions of road bike cranks - their mtb cranks are perfectly fine. Most reliable mounting system on the market. Never had any trouble with seized screws (RaceFace) or screws coming loose (SRAM).

Weight is fine, stiffness is fine, design might be considered a little bland though.

Cane Creek eeWings if your idea of "good" doesn't include value for money. Shimano or Sram are fine if you're on a budget.

Canfield makes different size cranks and never heard anything bad about them.

fatigue testing is a more useful result - twice I've had cranks catastrophically fail. Once was when I was very far out - dangerous scenario not being able to ride. I stopped using boutique cranks after that.

SRAM’s absence is a gaping chasm in this test.

We're gonna test that!

I love getting my crank polished lol

Heyyy uhhh got something in your wheel there

Do you top coat after polishing? Looks great!

throw some eeWings on!

Keep polishing that crank!

Those bolts are straight up poetry 

Should get a Cardboard fibre disc on the rear too.

Another weird new logo

This is so wrong it’s right

SRAM at home.

Don't do it. I literally sitting int he ER right now and have multiple days off work due to snapping a new set of SRAM X01 CRANKS! Get a good set of aluminum or titanium. Look at hope Evo or the EE-WING. I WILL never endorse carbon cranks ever again.

If you are worried about readability, get alloy.

Definitely the alloy ones

None of them

The most reliable carbon cranks are alloy cranks

I had the same, the fix is: get a Shimano crank set(with pinch bolts).

Zero to do with threads , when the teeth have started to wear it’s a downhill spiral and a sore shin . I made shims and bushes to recover a unit and it ended up being a desk tidy .

The point is that the teeth are not engaging , a new washer and a tighten up is just a band aid on a fucked crank

it does, it just needs a new washer, that one is clearly bent inwards. I also have a gxp, been suffering from this, put in a new washer, so far the problem seems to be fixed, plus, to be extra sure, you can put some medium strengh thread locker on the bolt.

Well, the threading appears to be getting stripped now which isnt great, but blue lock tight is the answer if there are still threads to hold on to.

When ISIS, octalink and especially square taper cranks start loosening, its a vicious downward spiral. It’s 99% of the time nothing to do with the internal retainer bolt or the spindle threads but the actual interface of the spline in the arm. If you can actually manage to remedy it, they won’t last more than a couple of rides (or even minutes) before coming loose again. The crank arms deform and are no longer an interference fit, there’s no cost effective method to repairing it. They are kind of outdated and heavier riding is what sends them to death, if you can pick up a shimano hollowtech or similar styled crankset, you’ll find much better reliability. You might be surprised how cheap you can find them if you shop around.

If cost were no option, white industries cranks would be on my bike for sure. The modular nature of the chainrings seems perfect for bikepacking. One of the few options to go below 30T without switching to mtn components, too. Not to mention they look GOOD!

It uses SRAM's interface so for 1x it's not really an issue but if I want to run a 2x setup with a 46/30 or even 48/32 it's not possible because in order to go that low on the Open I need direct mount chainrings. This is more of an issue with my particular setup but if I'm going to pay over $1k for a crank without a PM I don't want to have that limitation.

I have the EC90SL. Personally love them. I use the Cinch Power Meter as well and its all been 100% relable and the Easton BB is one of the smoothest BBs I have used. After 5k miles of gravel spins just as smooth as the nearly new C-Bear ceramic BB on my wife's bike.

Lightest: Probably the Tourno cranks from 3T

Best Deal: FSA SLK Adventure Cranks are if you can find them on sale and dont want a PM. I picked up a set for $250 including 46/30 chainrings and you can find them for even less if you shop for sales. Seen them for ~ $200 at Random Bike Parts as they often have 10% to 15% off coupons

Appreciate the +1, but honestly, that's kinda why I'm looking elsewhere. Those Easton's are everywhere, for a good reason by the sound of it, and they lack just a bit of personality IMHO. Although I suppose the could be fixed with an anodized Garbaruk chainring.

I work for FSA but, I love the Shimano GRX cranks the Cancreek didn’t work out for me since they were too short (I got 170mm arms) so I swapped to GRX, which worked great till I broke them in a crash, now I’m running FSA SL-K modular cranks and swap my cranks between bikes and ring combos as I need so I run the same carbon crankset as 36/46 on my gravel and 50/34 on my road bike, I do work at FSA but I got my crankset before I applied here on a killer deal and the modular nature appealed to me

eeWings are very nice but for me there are sacrifices like no PM. I run the EC90 on my Open and love it. It's super stiff and light, but it also works with how my bike looks. I run a 1x setup and use Wolftooth chainrings, which are a cinch(no pun intended) to swap.

M19 crankbros. I have never used a number of it's tools but was able to help friends out of a jam a few times. I have often thought about just packing regular Allen wrenches and a decent wrench.

I've been using the Crank Bros M19 tools for years and years and years. If it's loose, you can just tighten it up. I carry the M19, a Wolftooth Pack Pliers, and a Leatherman Skeletool, and a few other odds and ends.

I made my own from various tools so I only have exactly the sizes of wrenches, torx and screwdrivers for every component in my bike.

Leatherman

I carry a Ratchet Rocket Lite DX+ (the version that includes the chain tool), a very small 10mm wrench/socket (~2.5" long), and a Leatherman Skeletool (for the pliers and knife). I really like how the RR uses standard bits and I can swap out as needed depending on what I need to be able to do. In a pinch, you could maybe even drive a bottom bracket tool with it, though I'm not sure how much torque it can handle or you could dish out with the tiny lever. I still need to include a spoke wrench w/ my kit... Aside from changing out my spokes / cassette / bottom bracket, I can do pretty much any other maintenance my bike could ask for. If I were going to do a longer / more remote tour I would consider including the spoke wrench, pedal wrench, bottom bracket tool, and cassette lock ring along with a sturdier wrench for adjusting them.