Home Depot has their wall saw . But not sure if they can cut pieces that they don’t sell. Would be minor fee

The MakerFX makerspace is a wonderful resource of you're doing a lot of projects like this.

If you just need the one cut let me know and we can figure out a time.

Shameless plug as well, Maker Faire Orlando is coming up soon in November!

Gotcha. Have you considered joining a maker space? I'm a longtime member of Familab in Longwood and we're currently looking for a few new members.

https://www.familab.org/

I would just buy a cheap circular saw to start rebuilding your tool collection.

Prompt: cut a piece of wood.

Result: piece of wood cut by mitre saw, but it's not the right piece of wood.

New prompt: cut a piece of 2x4 pine wood.

Result: proper piece of wood cut, but in the wrong spot.

New prompt: using remaining 2x4 pine wood from original prompt, cut 2 inches off the end.

Result: 3 inches cut off.

A new seed is chosen to generate a new tree for a new piece of wood.

New prompt: cut a piece of 2x4 pine wood measuring ((exactly 6 inches long)) at ((exactly 90 degrees)), cinematic lighting, 4k visuals, in the style of Jesus the Carpenter, hand made aesthetic, hand saw aesthetic.

New negative prompt: cut to 7 inches, cut to 5 inches, oak, cedar, balsa.

Result: correct piece of wood is cut with proper specifications, but saw blade was dull and splintered the edges of the wood preventing a clean result.

Me: good enough.

Everyone else: SLOP.

All tools are an extension of the human using it.

The answer should be clear cut.

Pick up a handsaw

If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe.

You can even put a negative hook blade on a table saw.

https://youtu.be/LTQolAMubMU?si=Rz2bNKXrWkAkaxs1

So, the basics: Mitre saw blades have a negative angle on the tooth, table saws have a positive angle.

For something like Aluminium or plastics, this can actually be an advantage on the table saw to have a blade with a negative angle.

BUT

DO NOT USE A TABLE SAW BLADE ON A MITRE SAW! Unless you want to massively increase the risk of getting kickback (Disclaimer: YOU DO NOT!) from your mitre saw.

You want less hook for a table saw blade. Or even no hook. The blade turns towards you on the table saw pushing wood up and at you. More hook = more push. On a miter saw more hook helps hold the wood to the fence. You can still use it on both saws, less hook is just safer on a table saw.

you can try it if course. the cutting geometry of the saws are different. that's why there are different blades. the cutting may be harder/slower... but yes it will cut wood if it's put in a tablesaw. cut quality might be different

If that is your only option, sure, you can, but it's not ideal, especially for rip cuts and hard materials. But never put a table saw blade on a mitre saw. If you need a budget option, WEN sells 10” table saw blades on Amazon for $20. I'd recommend that as an alternative. They are adequate for most things. They are by no means a top-quality blade, but they do the job just fine and last, especially if you keep them clean.

Get the m18. Can’t do beveled cuts on 2x4 and if your blade gets even a little bit dull it struggles just on a straight 2x4. Won’t make it through wet either.

Standard rule of thumb for power hungry tools is to just go m18.

If you’re interested I would sell you my M12 fuel circular saw for $75 plus shipping

M12 is the homeowner version. 

It's only really good if you're doing like 10 ft of cuts or less. Great for the hobbyist. It's pretty lightweight too.

I just bought it for a job im doing- replacing the sheathing and siding on aj A frame some 21' off the ground. Holding a 7 1/4" above my head was really tiring and sketchy. I would say that having a 5ah High output is pretty necessary, and it is a bit slow if you are trying to pump out some work quickly. But if you are trying to save some weight, and only need your depth to be 1 1/2" or less, its pretty fucking sweet. I like it a lot.

I have the m12. Although it has miter capability it does terrible on even non treated 2x4.

The only thing it can do well is cut through a 2x4 non miter'd

Also does well with sheet goods.

I LOVE my M12 circular saw. It's light and compact and easy to use. I prefer blade left saws, so it also has that going for it.

The thing rips through 2x4s and plywood and anything in sheets. Has no trouble on any 2x material, I made a bookcase out for 2x10s and the thing just did it no trouble. I helped my brother do the siding on his garage and house last summer, we did every long cut with that M12 saw. Because it's so light it's easy to cut across a full 4x8 sheet of things from one side. It even did the pressure treated 4x4 posts without bogging down. I had no trouble with the stock Milwaukee blade, but I have a 5 1/2 Diablo framing blade on it now.

My old corded 7 1/4 is collecting dust, I honestly hope I never have to use it again, I hate it.

Which DeWalt do you have? An M18 might not be any better. And your issue might be the batteries, not the tool.

In choosing a circular saw, you have to decide on a blade size and also a blade orientation (left or right). Anything larger than I think 5-3/8" can handle 2x lumber, but only at 90 degrees. If you ever need to tilt the blade, you'll need a bigger saw. Blade-left saws let you see the blade as it's cutting, but they throw sawdust in your face, and the weight is on the right side of the cut, which for right-handed people is usually the waste side, so when the waste falls off when you finish the cut, the saw can go with it. 7 1/4" saws with the motor directly driving the blade ("sidewinders") are generally blade-right, and "rear-handle" or "worm-drive" 7-1/4" saws are generally blade-left (and they're probably too much saw for you). Smaller saws are generally blade-left.

My DeWalt 6-1/2" blade-left saw, the DCS565 is an XR model (their version of Fuel), and brushless. I've never managed to bog it down, not even with the blade fully extended to notch 6x6s. But sometimes a blade-right saw is handier, so I just got a corded 7-1/4" Makita 5007. I expect it will kick ass too.

Edited for typos.

If you are a just an at home diy 2x4 and plywood guy go to some garage sales tomorrow and buy a corded 7 1/4 circ saw for 10 or 25 dollars. Buy a couple of real metal foldable saw horses and call it a day.

You'll hand the saw down to your kids and be set up for anything you'd like to build. Oh, buy an extension cord. It's like a battery but it doesn't need to be recharged and it will never go bad.

For what it's worth I upgraded from my M18 6.5 to the M18 FUEL 7 1/4 Rear-handle because of the dust port which works very nicely, but also because It just churns through landscape pavers and retaining wall blocks like butter. If you're looking for versatility like that, it's worth the FUEL and the bigger one. If all you're doing is cutting 2x4 and plywood, you don't need much. Frankly I'm surprised the Dewalt can't handle those simple tasks... Never had problems with my 6.5 regular M18 for that.

If you want to spoil yourself on cutting plywood sheets and you do it a lot, you might look at the track/plunge saw. It's pretty pricy, but man it's awesome to always have perfectly straight cuts without having to jig it...

I just got the m12 fuel and it’s awesome

I’d recommend moving to a track saw. Makita is solid. Festool is better but maybe not worth the cost jump for occasional use. Definitely recommend corded since you’re most likely to run a track saw with dust extraction.

If you’re just looking for another circular saw, then I’d go cordless with whatever system you’ve got batteries for.

My corded Makita does a great job. It did a fantastic job breaking down 2" red oak slabs, so I'd happily recommend that.

My cordless Bosch on the other hand really struggled to crosscut those sumbitches.

Get corded if you need the cutting power. Cordless is good for portability and light duty cuts.

For just a ciruclar saw I'd go cordless and pick up a dewalt because you have the batteries.

If you're going to up the ante and invest in a track saw I'd still go cordless, but I'd at least consider the Milwuakee. I have one of these and the dust extraction is awesome - not to mention the tool in general...

If you don’t have a track saw, definitely consider it. Total game changer IMO

I see nothing wrong wit DeWalt as a brand and since you already have batteries for that brand then I see no reason to look elsewhere. Having a mix of battery brands is a pain compared to just picking up any of your batteries knowing it will work on whatever tool you need at the moment.

I just bought the Kreg accucut! It’s great

I have the milescraft track guide. I bought the main track and the extension for $180. I use it with my Makita circular corded. Works well once you get use to mounting in the track.

Main thing I would look for is a saw with a cast base. They tend to be flatter than the stamped steel options. Cordless is always more convenient in my opinion. 

Search on YouTube on how to make a track from wood. Homemade tracks are honestly not that bad assuming you can make 1 straight cut for the guide. You won’t have a channel that keeps the saw from slipping off the rail, but you can make tracks from scraps and as long as you pretty much want. I know Kreg makes something you connect to your saw also. If I didn’t have a track saw I’d probably make my own guide rail.

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/cutting/circular-saw-cutting/accu-cut/KMA2700.html

I got this early on and was pretty surprised by the accuracy.

If you got the paper, festool is the best in those categories. That being said, dewalt 780 and 779 is the golden standard of miter saws.

“Pro Level” is very subjective depending on what you are using it for- framing, frame to finish, finish work and cabinetry for example. If you want an all around saw that will do everything, I would go for a Dewalt dual bevel 12” saw and stand. Doesn’t take up a crazy amount of space in a truck or van and is an absolute workhorse for whatever you need it for. I have had mine for 14 years and it is still rock solid.

If you are valuing portability over anything, I would highly recommend the Ridgid 18V brushless cordless 7 1/4” dual bevel sliding miter saw. Battery powered and you can lift it with two fingers. The cons would be the small blade is very inefficient for framing, but it is so easy to move around I almost always use it for finish work. You can take it on a roof if you are siding dormers, and I work in Boston with coffin corner brownstone stairways and I don’t miss lugging up a heavier saw, trying not to scrape the walls while questioning all my life choices.

Blades are cheap, and I already run ridgid tools so batteries are very convenient. I find you have to square it up more often than a larger saw, but the convenience easily offsets that. I have a small 2x2 folding work table I use with it and it is great for doing window and door trim in narrower rooms and hallways or kitchens filled with boxed up cabinets where space and maneuverability is a priority.

I work by myself and do smaller finish jobs so if you are solo I would recommend the ridgid for anything but framing. If you are running a crew and have more a production mindset on site for weeks, dewalt all the way. It is more robust and can do more things quickly. You can build an entire house with the dewalt, but banging out a kitchen or just trim, love the ridgid.

Finally, I love a Bosch miter saw in the shop, but find them VERY heavy lugging around in the field. You can get your hands on all of these at Home Depot and get a feel for weight and compactness before you buy. Good luck out there!

10” Metabo hpt cordless sliding miter saw. Also has an ac adapter to run corded.

Are you carrying it to the job site? I dont find any of them particularly difficult to get in and out of the van. The 10" Bosch is a good option.

Dewalt 12 inch compound sliding MS is the best miter saw, hands down.

Makita 1050W 240V 165mm Corded Circular saw HS6601 https://share.google/KRXi3XcWDWq0zr25l

If you want straight long cuts I'd suggest a track saw. I've had an Evolution one for a few years and it's been really reliable. I'd recommend going for the longest track sections you can reasonably store. It'll be closer to £200 though.

If you want a power hand saw I would just buy the cheapest, I've had one brought from Wicks over 20 years and and still use it. But today, if you want more flexibility look for a track saw or one that can be used with tracks.

Mate get yourself a track saw, save a little extra money…. You can get them for about 100-150 for a reasonable one. The one pictured is probably a few hundred. It will save you time and is more accurate and easier to use giving top work results mate.

https://preview.redd.it/hpwuizfpfi9f1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=d71901c07c4496746f630fa8ca87cee65382404b

I’ve got a Ryobe circular saw, had it for years and it cuts as well as my Dad’s DeWalt. For perfectly straight cuts I use a good length of roofing batten, clamped at both ends.