TL;DR
Milwaukee 18V SDS MAX
The Milwaukee 18V SDS MAX cordless hammer drill is frequently mentioned as a top choice. Users appreciate its raw power and durability, making it suitable for heavy-duty tasks like drilling large holes in masonry [5:1]. However, it's important to compare specific models within the range, as different versions can vary significantly in performance
[5:4].
Makita 18V Hammer Drill
Another popular option is the Makita 18V hammer drill. Some users have found it to be more powerful than Milwaukee's offerings, particularly when comparing similar models side by side [5:3]. This suggests that Makita might be a better choice for those seeking maximum punch in their cordless hammer drill.
AEG Kit
For those looking for a budget-friendly option without compromising on quality, the AEG kit is recommended. It has received positive feedback for its price-to-quality ratio, with users noting its durability and effectiveness in various applications [5:7]. The AEG multi-tool is also highlighted as a standout product in their lineup.
Considerations for Smaller Bits
When using smaller bits (6-10mm) with an SDS MAX drill, caution is advised. Applying full throttle can break the carbide off the bit quickly [5:8]. It's recommended to use less of the trigger to preserve the bit.
Dust Management Accessories
Regardless of the drill chosen, investing in dust management accessories like a vacuum snorkel can significantly improve site cleanup, especially when drilling into brick [5:9]. Festool offers compatible accessories that can retrofit onto various drills, providing effective dust extraction solutions.
No team Showdowns, that will be a question for another day.
It has to be a Showdown where it was one on one, or a Showdown trio.
The Sun Chi Lantern
Truth or Lie. Man I wish they had continued with Omi wanting to reform Jack in S3. Would’ve been a great arc for both
Truth or Lie.
Shows him winning by using the intelligence and social awareness that he’s picked up by being a part of a team.
The Omi before he met Raimundo, Kimiko and Clay wouldn’t have been able to do that
Truth or Lie
My favorite was always Omi vs the Snowman. Seeing Omi defeat the Snowman by using its own redirected water right back at it was always hype as hell to me
Recent purchase off the secondary market. Very little wear on gun and original owner claimed only about 50 shots. Haven't gone out to shoot it yet, but have been dryfiring at home (about an average amount that we all do as owners).
Buddy comes over and checks out the Python. Shows me the cylinder rotating with every trigger pull, but hammer staying still. I pull the hammer back and pull the trigger and everything returns to normal.
What's the issue on the gun? My fear is that it's something I'm gonna need warranty service for. Does Colt want to see proof of being 1st original owner? Or do they take your word? What should I do?
There's a spring loaded leg that comes off the hammer that gets moved by the trigger. If it's not in the right position the hammer won't move back. Could be damage to the leg, the spring, or the trigger. Unfortunately, it'll probably have to go back to the factory, or at least to a gunsmith.
HELP. I am UPSC aspirant... long Hours of writing ..want the pen for Handwriting Enhancement and less fatigue...... Best Gel pen for UPSC .Waterproof QuickDry Smudge free. Good Grip for Long Hours Writing. Preferably Refillable. Under ₹100. Dont know the Best Body Type or Nib Size or Mechanism
V5RT/V7RT
I have seen many aspirants using the normal V5 as well. But it is not water resistant
They are NOT WATERPROOF
V5RT and V7RT are waterproof.
Pentel energel
Is it waterproof completely. I think it gets washed a bit right?
It's waterproof
Is the grip comfortable for long hours of writing?
Yessssss. But I'd suggest you to try one pen each of all the reccos you get and then decide on your final pen.
fine (.7) smudges quiet a lot i would suggest micro (.5)
Haan yes OP should try both 0.7 and 0.5mm. I don't like 0.5mm because i find it scratchy and dry
Ok thanks will give it a try
So, over the last couple of days I have fallen in love with Athlytic - it is the perfect balance of nerd and simple for my taste, and it gives me just enough insights to keep me motivated on my fitness journey. I have also, over the past couple of years, slowly fallen out of love with the Apple watch. I still like the hardware, but a bit of variety on my wrist would be nice, plus not having to charge the damn thing every day would be a bonus.
I would, in short, love to go back to wearing a (preferably) screen-less fitness band and a mechanical watch, but would also settle for a third party watch (e.g. Garmin) with a longer battery life.
My question to you guys in this subreddit is the following: which fitness bands and/or watches do you know of, that would sync all relevant data to Apple Health that would still let me take advantage of Athlytic? Specifically HRV, resting HR, wrist temp, SpO2, respiration rate, sleep (time is OK, cycles would be brilliant). Also doable are third party sync solutions, if those can also work.
Suggestions and experiences welcome and appreciated!
P.S. I know this is not directly related to Athlytic, but my focus here is to get an alternative hardware that would let me keep using Athlytic
Amazfit Helio strap
I have this equipment too. It is ridiculously cheap. My only issue is that I would like to be able to see sleep scores on a monthly calendar view just like Athlytic.
I considered that, but I have heard that it doesnt sync HRV data, which is the fundamental metric Athlytic uses. Do you have experience otherwise?
Apparently it syncs on the latest beta
Sorry I don’t know
Also curious to know if and when Helio Strap will push HRV data to apple health. Essentially that’s the key. Athlytic pulls what it can from Apple.
Bro I got so excited at that thread! And then one of the staff commented on it and watered down my enthusiasm
You and me both buddy. I mean, I get it that the manufacturers want to keep people on their ecosystems, but as an end user, having your entire data in one platform (whether Apple health or Google fit) just makes sense. Makes it easier to switch hardware without losing data, and this is even one of the areas where Apple even ALLOWS this integration and manufacturers still only use the bare minimum
What’s the best option for a battery rotary hammer drill that will drill 25mm holes in brick/ masonry and chisel. My old Ramset Dynadrill drill just gave up the ghost! After recommendations and why…
I’ve got the Milwaukee 18v SDS MAX drill, one of the best things Ive ever bought. Actually it’s my second me because the first one got stolen. I’ve got the normal 18v one for smaller work
Yeah the top model of the range is awesome
And which one do you use as a plugging drill? I still use an old Bosch drill that I bought to replace my Ramset plugging drill 15 years ago… showing my age.
I’ve had poor results from trying to drill through precast walls with 20mm and up. I’d honestly much rather have a corded one, but I just use whatever my boss supplies.
Have drilled 40mm holes in pre cast with mine easy🤷♂️
Careful with the sds max if you’re using smaller bits 6-10mm if you use it full throttle because it hits with a fair bit more juice it’ll break the carbide right off the bit in a fairly short period of time, 10-20 holes I’d say.
It will accept the bit just use less of the trigger to save your bit from breaking
Speaking from experience, I hope this helps someone
How the hell do you fit a 6mm bit in a sds max???
I never use it for anything smaller than a 20mm hole.
Makita 18V hammer drill.
Have a mate who is through and through milwaukee, his batteries went flat so let me use my makita on a job we were on. He could.not believe how much more punch the makita has. You out them side by side and it is night and day for the makita.
That’s interestingly the opposite of all our guys experiences. Where makita fails the Milwaukee has the raw power to succeed.
The trick is apple for apples comparison as both ranges have many different versions of what appears to the layman as the same tool. But specs matter when comparing say a brushed 16mm SDS hammer drill to a brushless SDS max 32mm.
Both are 18v hammer drills, one will punch a hole in just about anything, the other is basically a vibrator that rubs its way through cardboard barely.
Went with the AEG kit and its mint, I'm not nice to my tools either, every one I work with is rocking Milwaukee and even they rate it, for the price and warranty all of it is bang for your buck. Im not a brand whore either I claim no allegiance to any brand ive tried dewalt, makita and some Milwaukee and I definitely rate AEG for price to quality ratio. The multi tool is where they make there money though lol
Whatever option you pick, try to get on with a vacuum snorkel as an accessory.
Doesn’t work well for breaker work, but if you’re drilling into brick, then it’s a godsend on site clean up.
Even if your preferred manufacturer doesn’t have one, then the Festool accessory for the KHC would retro fit on using the depth gauge bar (that’s how it mounts to the KHC anyway). Or they have this suction one for drilling up to 12mm holes
Been a game changer for me when drilling out brick work.
The risk of Silicosis is a very serious issue that is often overlooked in small or quick jobs.
I'm glad tradies like yourself are on top of it.
To answer the question, I use hilti te4, te6 and a te30 if it's serious or have a heap of holes to drill.
Hey Folks, starting to do a lot more around a house and a rental property and my Ryobi was not up to snuff. Want to upgrade to a Dewalt. Willing to spend the money for the right tool but unsure if I really need the Heavy Duty one for day to day work but if its really worth it im down. Help wanted.
DEWALT 20V MAX XR Cordless Hammer Drill Driver Brushless, Heavy Duty 1/2", 3-Speed, Tool Only (DCD996B)
DEWALT 20V MAX Hammer Drill, 1/2", Cordless and Brushless, Compact With 2-Speed Setting, Bare Tool Only (DCD805B)
I'd get the bigger one. More power never hurts.
You dont think that's to much for like simpler tasks like shelves?
If you had the Ryobi hp and that wasn’t enough then you better go big. The ryobi hp is a damn good drill these days. Just can’t compete with the top end of Dewalt and Milwaukee.
Yes it is, but you will own this tool for 10+ years, and in that time, you might come across something that requires a little more torque.
The caveat is that if you are a smaller person, having a lighter tool might be easier to use. Personally, I don't mind the weight and would rather have the extra torque when I need it.
They’d both work great for around the house. If the price isnt an issue, I personally think the upgrade is worth it. If you ever have to do masonry work, you’ll appreciate the difference. It doesn’t replace a proper SDS, but the 996B is the best hammer drill I’ve ever used.
The he dcd1007 is still on sale on amazon if you’re quick enough. Comes with 8ah and fast charger. $230 ish last I saw
I’ve always said “if you’re only gonna have 1 better have the big one. Rather have the power on tap and not need it than need it and not have it.”
Of course the ideal solution is both the big DCD996 hammer drill (I have a DCD999 FlexVolt Advantage) and a DCD800/DCD801 compact drill. The light weight is nice when you have to drill over head, or in tight spaces. The bigger hammer drill is all I’ve ever had and even with my smaller stature (5’7” and 125lbs) it’s never been a big issue to use the heavier drills. I replaced my old 18V DCD950 hammer drill with the DCD999 and they are both similar in size and weight (tenths of lbs of weight and fractions of inches in size.
Hi guys, it's been a one too many time that I need a hole in the wall and can't do one. I'm renting an apartment, there's not much storage space.
I am searching for the best option of impact/hammer drill, that will allow me to:
I am aware that there's no such thing as a ONE tool that best serves MANY purposes, but I'm looking for the next best thing.
I won't be using it daily (I doubt even monthly), but my mindset is to buy once and preferably use it for the rest of my life, so I don't mind paying extra for that.
Thanks for all the suggestions in advance.
Definitely sounds like you’re in hammer drill territory if you’re working with brick or even older concrete-type walls. Impact drivers won’t help for drilling they’re more for driving screws.
For what you’re describing (multi-material use, cordless, long-term value), a compact hammer drill/driver combo might be the best one-tool option. DEWALT and Makita have solid models that are still small enough for apartment use.
This post breaks down when/why you’d go hammer
Thanks! I indeed read it earlier, my main point was to find something that's universal-enough for all use cases.
Totally get that most hammer drills let you switch off hammer mode, so you can use it like a regular drill when needed. Makes it a solid all-in-one option.
Go into a hardware store and pick the cordless hammer drill that feels best in your hand or is your favorite color in your price range. They'll come in a kit with battery and charger. Any ~18v one except for the very cheapest will be fine. Brushless is better but not required
Damn internet research, I actually haven't thought of that
> hammer drill that feels best in your hand
thanks mate
Yeah there's a lot of tribalism and minutiae with these things online but at the end of the day all the main brands are competitive with each other and thus basically the same. Especially with a very standard tool like a hammer drill.
If you avoid the very cheapest home brand crappy ones, basically anything else should do you fine. But keep your receipt and be ready to warranty it in any case, even the best brands have duds sometimes
You can get an impact\hammer combination if you do actually want both in one tool.
Bosch flexi-click 12v and 18v have both a hammer and impact attachment. 12v is surprisingly powerful and will do most home jobs just fine.
Bosh pro is excellent quality too.
I bought this awhile back and it has been able to do anything ive needed including drilling through brick, concrete, top studs, etc. We used them at work daily and they held up for many years of daily use. Everyone will say red is better, or buy makita, everyone has different camps, but they're all the same. Whatever you pick, try and stick with the same brand for other tools so you can swap batteries. If you go red, look for the fuel 18V line as thats going to give you the power you need for tougher materials. This is a Drill/Driver/ Hammer Drill, plus a separate impact driver.
In the market for a cordless rotary hammer drill. After something with abit of oomph but not insanely heavy to maintain portability.
Would be used on hammer majority of the time, chipping, roughly shaping larger stone and bulk removal before final dressing. Occasionally the odd hole in concrete for fixings/starter bars but that’s usually a max requirement of 18/20mm dia. Got my eye on the DHR400ZKN or something similar?
After feedback on what others are using and how they like them, pros n cons of models etc
I wouldn't waste my time with the 36v. The 18v is plenty powerful for drilling holes and chipping. If you plan to use if on chisel mode for prolonged periods, you're far better off with a corded model as these tools will eat batteries. Fine to have battery at hand for a bit of finesing but wasting your time if you're relying on it for long periods of chisel mode
>I wouldn't waste my time with the 36v. The 18v is plenty powerful for drilling holes and chipping.
He will be using it mainly for chiseling this is where 18V lacks that "punch". Also he mentioned 18/20mm drilling, this is max or even over the limit for 18V which will literally kill the tool.
> If you plan to use if on chisel mode for prolonged periods, you're far better off with a corded model as these tools will eat batteries.
It won't. I can chisel with 18V for around an hour with one 5Ah battery but of course it's weak so it's just something small, not to mention that after fourth battery the tool is very very hot and you better give it time to cool down.
Thanks for your input. Got multiple corded models in various sizes, also had an early 18v one and found it was ok before it eventually died.
Current project is a fair distance from power source and, whilst Leeds do reach, it’s just another thing to setup/pack up.
Dhr400. Is very good for watch it is. But for chiseling the xgt only chisel is lighter and very stronger in hits.
Please don't compare the dhr400 with dhr283 for example . The 400 is a real pneumatic SDs max and is very good if you understand his limits. It is a cordless tool for mobility. If you have power supply don't waste money and ruin the tool by abusing it.
All rotary hammers will ruin very fast if used major time on just hammering. Just hammers will last veeeeery longer
Ok cool, thanks for the good info
If you want punch on battery, go for XGT. I have DHR243 though and it’s a beast. IMHO last bearable model with most punch from LXT. 36V is a whole kilo heavier. DHR243 is still, as I say, bearable. And if you don’t plan to remove whole concrete floors with it, you shall be fine. ;)
Thanks. XGT is tempting but budget doesn’t really allow for now and I like the versatility of my current LXT kit. Considering the DHR282ZJ which looking at specs seems pretty capable
the single 18V LXT will be way to weak for you for sure. That DHR400ZKN will be heavy and two batteries. Not sure how deep you're in LXT system but maybe it's working looking for some XGT options?
Yes, I had an early 18v and found it was useable, but wasn’t entirely efficient. Pretty vested into the 18v range atm but could possibly be swayed if found a good deal. Would you say the 40v models power to weigh ratios exceed the 36?
Power wise they're stronger because of much powerful batteries. But even LXT should handle that, here is something interesting. Take a look at parts diagram of HR010G SDS hammer notice the part number of striker and punch, then compare it with DHR182. It's the same! But somehow DHR182 is just 1.9J where in HR010G you have 2.1J! Not to mention the XGT one is actually smaller!
So yeah in XGT you'll for sure have a bit more power mainly because of the more powerful batteries. You can always compare the tools on the official webpage. Just remember, two 5Ah LXT batteries are actually one 5Ah XGT.
Hey folks, another tool question for my kid starting pipe trades course.... We ordered his angle grinder (Makita GA5020). Only other power tool needed for now is a good cordless drill. Requirements were:
- cordless
- 18V minimum
- 1/2" chuck
- combo nut driver (think I got that right?)
- hammer function
Looking at the Makita drills, I -think- DHP485Z (MAKITA 18V LXT Brushless 1/2-inch Hammer Driver Drill) should fit the bill?? Any others?
Also, would a 3ah battery be enough?
The metal chucks on the DHP486Z and DHP489Z are a nice addition, but they do add a fair bit to the price. I don't have personal experience with the plastic ones, but the metal one has held up well.
As for the battery, the 3Ah ones would probably be fine, but they aren't the best if your kid is going to get more Makita tools. Most people would probably recommend sticking to the 5Ah and 2Ah batteries. The 3, 4, 5, and 6Ah batteries all weigh about the same, but the 5Ah is the sweet spot in terms of power and duration for high power tools. 2Ah is nice for the lower weight on things like drills and impacts, but does cut some of the power compared to the higher Ah batteries.
Well, the 484Z is about 200 Cad, the 489Z is about $230......I don't mind spending the extra $30 if its really worth it?
Sounds like you already purchased something, but just wanted to follow up with a picture of how the metal chuck on my DHP486 has faired over a few years. A good bit of scratches and some wearing down of the knurling near the end, but still functions well:
https://i.imgur.com/b0qTgDO.jpeg
Some of it definitely situationally dependent, where a lot of mine came from drilling around stucco and putting holes through metal sheets, but pipe trades might mean dealing with some similar stuff. Although stucco is probably less prevalent in Canada.
I would say go for the metal chuck then. Drilling at awkward angles and locations has led to my chuck rubbing up against things accidentally. The metal has withstood it well, but who knows how the plastic would have done.
But I don't have experience with the plastic one, so it might be best to wait for someone else's input.
As another one said, get 484 or if money isn't big deal then grab 489. Tbh I have no idea why the hell they want hammer function, it's mostly a joke in drills would be much better to get small SDS like dhr171
What do you mean about "combo nut driver?" Is this maybe from a class syllabus? That might be a hint to look for a drill/driver combo. Often those are a much better value than the tool alone as they will bundle the two tools with one or two batteries and a charger.
The drill will do different work than an impact (nut) driver. It has a clutch but does not do high torque impacts. But it does hammer for concrete drilling, and other kinds of drilling will work best with the drill. I think a pipe fitter is likely to need both.
Not sure about the combo thing, will double check on that. Thx!
484 is a better choice if price is in range.
Could you tell me why? I'm trying to read through the specs, and outside of some measurements differences, I honestly can't pick out any differences!
It is a newer model and it's better in everything. Mainly the improved metal gearbox housing.
DHP489
Down voted for asking a cordless drill question. Wow.
Used this guy today for some rough ins and it did pretty good. Not as strong as the Milwaukee but it wasn't bad at all. My M18 Gen 3 Hammer Drill finally died a couple days ago. That 12 amp Bauer battery takes a while to charge though so definitely gotta keep extra batteries on stand by.
Handle. Where did you get it.
BAUER 20V Brushless Cordless, 1/2 in. Hammer Drill - Tool Only - Item 59368 https://hftools.com/app59368
Comes standard on the hammer drill
yeah what he said. It's included with the new Brushless Hammer Drill.
Most decent hammer drills come with a handle and if it doesn't, it is not worth getting. The handle is incredible
If yoi like that, look at the Hercules 20V. Videos on YouTube shows it is up there with the big boys.
best cordless hammer drill
Key Considerations for Choosing a Cordless Hammer Drill:
Power and Voltage: Look for a drill with at least 18V for sufficient power. Higher voltage (20V or more) can provide better performance for tougher tasks.
Hammer Functionality: Ensure the drill has a reliable hammer function for drilling into masonry and concrete. Check the BPM (beats per minute) rating; higher BPM means better performance in hammer mode.
Torque Settings: A drill with adjustable torque settings (at least 15-20 settings) allows for better control when driving screws into different materials.
Battery Life: Opt for a model with lithium-ion batteries for longer life and quicker charging. A drill with two batteries can be convenient for extended use.
Weight and Ergonomics: Choose a lightweight model (around 4-5 lbs) with a comfortable grip to reduce fatigue during prolonged use.
Brand Reputation and Warranty: Consider reputable brands like DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, or Milwaukee, which often offer good warranties and customer support.
Recommendations:
DeWalt DCD996P2: This 20V MAX XR hammer drill is highly rated for its power, with a 3-speed transmission and up to 38,250 BPM in hammer mode. It also features a high-efficiency brushless motor for longer runtime.
Makita XPH07Z: Another excellent choice, this 18V LXT hammer drill offers a robust design, high torque (1,090 in-lbs), and a compact size, making it ideal for tight spaces.
Milwaukee 2804-20: Known for its durability and performance, this 18V hammer drill provides a high torque rating and a REDLINK PLUS intelligence system for optimal performance.
Choosing any of these options will provide you with a reliable and powerful cordless hammer drill for various projects.
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