Hockey Stick Selection Guide
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TLDR
Summary
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What Redditors are SayingHockey Stick Selection Guide
TL;DR Choosing a hockey stick involves considering personal preference, skill level, position, and budget. Try different sticks to find what feels comfortable and suits your style of play.
Personal Preference and Comfort
The most important factor in selecting a hockey stick is personal preference. Many experienced players recommend trying different sticks to see what feels best for you 
[1], [4:2]. This includes testing various blade curves, flex levels, and lengths [3:1], [5:10]. Visiting local stores that allow you to test sticks can be beneficial [3:3].
Flex and Kick Points
Stick flex is crucial and often recommended to be about half your body weight [3:1]. Lower flex sticks are easier to load and may be better for beginners who aren't yet taking powerful shots [5:3], [5:6]. The kick point, where the stick flexes most, affects shot power and should be chosen based on your shooting style [2].
Blade Curve and Length
Blade curve impacts puck control and shooting style. Beginners might start with a mid curve for versatility [3:2]. Stick length should ideally reach your chin when standing in skates, as shorter sticks allow more freedom for stickhandling [2:8]. Trying out teammates' sticks or those at a store can help identify the right length and curve [4:3].
Budget Considerations
While high-end sticks offer advanced technology and lighter materials, they are not necessary for beginners [3:3]. Intermediate sticks are fine if they suit your comfort and style, with many professionals using them [5:2], [5:11]. It's advisable to start with lower-end sticks until you determine your preferences [5:8].
Recommendations Beyond Discussions
Consider looking into brands known for durability and performance, such as Bauer, CCM, and Warrior. Additionally, online resources like North Pro Stock offer quality sticks at reduced prices [3:3]. For field hockey, a midbow stick with 70%-95% carbon content is suggested for beginners [4:1].
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POST SUMMARY • [1]Summarize
***Buying advice mega thread***
Posted by AutoModerator · in r/Fieldhockey · 10 months ago
ORIGINAL POSTPersonally, I suggest you go to your local hockey store or ask to try your mate’s stick at training before asking here - as personal preference is a large factor in choosing a stick. Strangers on the internet aren’t going to be able to help you much.
Resources
Go Hockey (NZ) stick guide - including length, bow, composition and hook information
Y1 Stick quiz - it asks questions and it suggests a stick for you
Sports Republic (SA) 5 minute video on stick buying advice
If you still want advice please provide this information for stick buying
- Gender
- Age
- Country
- Skill level
- Budget
- Position
- Skill set (e.g 3D, drag flicker, overhead)
- Current stick
Will start removing general low effort posts about stick advice (posts not comments).
To cut down on the daily posts of "what stick should I buy?" I thought we should trial just having one mega-thread for people to ask questions, in order to help elevate this sub to be less of a ghost town. Open to suggestions on this idea
Could just be me, but gender and age seem unnecessary on account of very few, if any, female only sticks. Age similarly I feel does very little when height is the key driver. Welcome the idea of the key metrics but personally I wouldn't consider either when recommending a stick online - I could be the minority but my 2 cents.
You are probably right - I was more just thinking the more info the better. I feel age is kinda useful - I feel a 12 year old and 18 year old have different skill sets and needs. Like a 12 year old doesn’t really need the most expensive flashy stick no matter how good they are
Hi experts, looking for a stick recommendation if anyone cares to give one. Relevant details are:
Age: 15
Position: Forward (occasionally mid)
Skill level: Medium/Low
Country: United States
Budget: $225
Current Stick: Princess 36.5" Low Bow 35% Carbon
Really annoying to see the Nike sticks release on Uk stores and they don’t have a carbon % number
This is becoming more and more common with modern sticks. I used to work in a Sports Shop that specialised in hockey sticks. A rep was in with us and we asked about this as the major manufacturers like Adidas, Grays etc all stopped including it as part of their specs. This is supposedly why:
In the past 5-10 years it’s become easier and easier to go direct to the factory in Pakistan and get a run of sticks branded for sale under whatever brand name you want. These sticks are often listed at 100% carbon and are considerably cheaper than the top sticks from the more established brands, giving the impression they are the same quality just cheaper.
What the big brands claim is that the carbon used in their sticks is of a much higher quality, and is laid more precisely for better power output and durability meaning they can get the same results with a lower carbon percentage. To try combat the whole issue of say a Grays GR10000 being a lower carbon percentage but more expensive than ‘Insert Generic Stick Brand Here’ they’ve stopped listing it and rather just market their more expensive sticks as ‘more powerful’ and ‘better control’ to more elite players.
How true this is I don’t know. I’ve not used any of the new-to-market brands so can’t guess how they compare.
This is becoming more and more common with modern sticks. I used to work in a Sports Shop that specialised in hockey sticks. A rep was in with us and we asked about this as the major manufacturers like Adidas, Grays etc all stopped including it as part of their specs. This is supposedly why:
In the past 5-10 years it’s become easier and easier to go direct to the factory in Pakistan and get a run of sticks branded for sale under whatever brand name you want. These sticks are often listed at 100% carbon and are considerably cheaper than the top sticks from the more established brands, giving the impression they are the same quality just cheaper.
What the big brands claim is that the carbon used in their sticks is of a much higher quality, and is laid more precisely for better power output and durability meaning they can get the same results with a lower carbon percentage. To try combat the whole issue of say a Grays GR10000 being a lower carbon percentage but more expensive than ‘Insert Generic Stick Brand Here’ they’ve stopped listing it and rather just market their more expensive sticks as ‘more powerful’ and ‘better control’ to more elite players.
How true this is I don’t know. I’ve not used any of the new-to-market brands so can’t guess how they compare.
This is becoming more and more common with modern sticks. I used to work in a Sports Shop that specialised in hockey sticks. A rep was in with us and we asked about this as the major manufacturers like Adidas, Grays etc all stopped including it as part of their specs. This is supposedly why:
In the past 5-10 years it’s become easier and easier to go direct to the factory in Pakistan and get a run of sticks branded for sale under whatever brand name you want. These sticks are often listed at 100% carbon and are considerably cheaper than the top sticks from the more established brands, giving the impression they are the same quality just cheaper.
What the big brands claim is that the carbon used in their sticks is of a much higher quality, and is laid more precisely for better power output and durability meaning they can get the same results with a lower carbon percentage. To try combat the whole issue of say a Grays GR10000 being a lower carbon percentage but more expensive than ‘Insert Generic Stick Brand Here’ they’ve stopped listing it and rather just market their more expensive sticks as ‘more powerful’ and ‘better control’ to more elite players.
How true this is I don’t know. I’ve not used any of the new-to-market brands so can’t guess how they compare.
I think elite is 90 and the other 2 are 75 and 50
So if we have a question about buying a stock comment here?
Cool
So I "need" an ultralight stick. Where I'm from we don't have many players, therefore I am an all rounder player position wise. I feel an ultralight would be awesome to have, and I was eyeing the osaka future lab specifically for the gimmicky hook slot and divot as I'm usually the injector or the receiver on corners, but I fear that if I do go for this stick, it will greatly affect my slapping power, as my whole defensive skills hinge on my slap. Any advice or recommendations os greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Tldr is future lab going to impede slaps or to just stick with current stick
Edit: ended up doing the quiz for in this post and it just linked to stupid expensive sticks
16, Australia, 4 years playing, all rounder, slaps, current stick is the grays e11 (eddie ockenden stick i found in a bargain bin)
Thanks guys!
And here is the problem with megathreads. It's been well and truly a month with no response because no one looks at megathreads.
I did end up getting the future lab stick, and it is amazing. The balance point is far enough to for quicker response but in a good spot for proper hits. Slaps feels the same as my previous stick. The hook slot does wonders for my injections. Thanks for nothing guys!
Hey there I’ve just seen your post. Only new to this thread. So you like the future lab? I’m also in Aus and I’m looking at the future lab low groove 70 and 100. Which % did you go for ? Wasn’t sure if the 70 would be too low or not as my current kookaburra is 95.
Hi,
So I was bought the "Adidas Zone Dox 2.2S Hockey Shoes" at Christmas. My current pair are now to small. I have been looking online for 2 months and everywhere is out of stock for size 10/10.5 is there a time of year when new stock comes in or are they like a only that year release?
Is there any other good shoes people would recommend? I keep getting blisters now with my current pair.
Thank you.
r/hockeyplayers • [2]Summarize
Stick Buyer's Guide!
Posted by louiefriesen · in r/hockeyplayers · 3 years agoIn this post I'll be explaining the differences and similarities of hockey sticks from various brands, how they are similar, different, better, and worse than one another. I will be explaining things like kick points, curves, and more that beginners might find confusing (and for people looking for a new stick that is as similar as possible to their favorite twig).
​
KICK POINT
Let's start with kick points. The kick point of a stick is where it flexes the most. The higher up in the stick it flexes, the more powerful the shot. The lower in the stick it flexes, the quicker the release.
The kick points that are the most common are low and medium kick points. There is also hybird (or mid-low), and high.
​
Popular low kick point stick lines:
Bauer Vapor (current top model: Hyperlite)
CCM Ribcor (current top model: Trigger 6 Pro, Trigger 7 Pro TBA)
Warrior Covert (current top model: QRE 10, QRS Pro TBA)
True HZRDUS, AX and Project X (current top models: Project X Limited Edition and PX)
Sherwood Rekker (current top model: Element One)
​
Popular hybrid (or mid-low) kick point stick lines:
Bauer Nexus** (current top models: Sling and Geo, Sync TBA)
CCM JetSpeed (current top model: FT4 Pro, FT5 Pro TBA)
Warrior Alpha* (current top model: LX Pro)
Sherwood Code (current top model: Code V)
STX Surgeon (current top model: RX3)
​
*Warrior Alpha sticks are advertised as low kick point. Their Covert line is also advertised as low kick point. The Alpha does in fact have a higher kick point than Covert, but it has a lower kick point than mid kick sticks, as well as the JetSpeed. I classified it as a mid-low to prevent confusion with the Covert line.
**The Bauer Nexus line has a higher kick point than JetSpeed, but I decided to classify it as a hybrid kick as it's Bauer's middle line, and is more similar to JetSpeed than Tacks.
​
Popular mid kick point stick lines:
CCM Tacks and Super Tacks (current top model: AS4 Pro, AS-V Pro TBA)
True Catalyst and XC (current top model: Catalyst PX)
Sherwood Project (current top model: 9?)
STX Stallion (current top model: HPR2)
Bauer Supreme (current top models: ADV and Ultrasonic)
​
TAPERS
When you are looking at a stick, normally you will see it say taper somewhere on the shaft. There are different tapers for different kick points. Normally the taper will be from the lower part of a stick down into the blade. Normally lower end sticks won't have tapers. I wouldn't worry too much about tapers. Not that they aren't important, but tapers will normally be tied to different lines of sticks, which will be tied to different kick points.
​
Vapor: XE Taper (since Flylite generation)
Ribcor: Asymmetrically Tapered Shaft* (since Trigger 4 Pro generation)
Covert: Edge Taper (since QREdge generation)
Rekker: Dropkick Taper
Alpha: Sabre Taper (LX Pro generation and newer uses Sabre Taper II)
Code: Target Lock Taper
Nexus: ER Spine Taper** (since Geo/ADV generation)
Supreme: Sonic (since Ultrasonic/ADV generation)
Surgeon: PureGrip^([A])
​
*Concave on the front of the stick, and convex on the back on the stick.
**Bauer's ER Spine Taper on their Nexus sticks is actually a 5-sided shaft the whole way up the shaft.
^([A])STX's PureGrip Taper is similar to Bauer's ER Spine taper. It has 6 sides. On the bottom there is 3 sides.
​
BLADE CURVES
There will be a whole ton of blade curves to choose from out there. I will only list a few popular ones. Some curves will be great at raising the puck, some will be great at backhands, some will be great at everything. The most common are toe curves (like P92, P28, and P90), and mid curves (like P88). I would recommend starting off with a P92 or P92-equivalent curve.
You may see something like M after the curve, (ie P92M). This means max blade height. This basically means it's the same curve, but the blade is taller. Apparently it makes your shots harder, blades stronger, and faceoffs easier to win. For starting off, you don't need to worry about this too much. If you see a number (ie TC2-5), that refers to lie. I will address lie in a different part of this post.
Lots of brands have their own names for common curves and normally are almost identical to other curves from other brands. So when you see P92 (Bauer) / P29 (CCM) / xxx (company 'X'), that means that those are all the same curve, just different names brands give them.
I will only mention a few of the most popular curves out there. You can find charts of them online.
​
Popular Curves:
P92** is good at everything. I would recommend it as a curve to start with. - P92 (Bauer) / P29 (CCM) / W03 (Warrior) / TC2 (True) / E3 (Easton) / X92 (STX) / PP26* and PP92* (Sherwood)
P28 is very good at raising the puck high, stickhandling, and deking. - P28 (Bauer and CCM) / W28 (Warrior) / TC4 (True) / E28 (Easton) / X28 (STX) / PP28 (Sherwood)
P90T is a relatively new curve. It is a mix of the P92 and P28 curves. Most brands call it P90T. True calls it TC6
P88 is a good curve for stickhandling and shooting the puck low. It is quite flat compared to other curves. - P88 (Bauer) / P88 (CCM) / W88 (Warrior) / MC (True) / E36 (Easton) / X88 (STX) / PP88 (Sherwood)
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*I'm not too familiar with Sherwood. I believe that these are their closest curves to P92
**P29, W03, TC2-5, PP92, and P92 Lie 5 have a lie of 5, and P92, TC2, and PP26 have a low of 6.
​
FLEX
Flex is how much weight (in lbs) it takes to flex the stick 1 inch. Normally it's just a number (ie 75) followed by 'Flex', and in increments of 5. Most senior sticks will range from 65 to 95 flex. Some kid's sticks are as low as 10 flex, and some senior sticks are a high as 105 or more flex (Zdeno Chara uses a 130 flex!). Normally the number will end in 0 or 5, but for Bauer (as they like to be different), it will normally end in 2 or 7.
What I'd recommend as a starting point would be about half your weight. So for a 150 lbs person, they should use ~75 flex. But if you're just starting, it would probably be good to use a bit of a lower flex before you build your shooting muscles up. So for someone starting to play hockey and they are ~150 lbs, I'd recommend they start with a 65 flex stick, unless they are quite muscular.
But again, everything about sticks comes down to personal preference. Phil Kessel (who is over 200 lbs) uses a 65 flex stick!
GRIP
Grip is basically what it sounds like. Grip is grippy. No grip is not grippy.
Some people love grip (like me), and others hate it. Find what you like and use it.
There are 3 main types of grip finishes. Gloss, which is the most tacky (my favourite), Matte, which is not a grippy as gloss, but still has some grip to it, and No Grip, which is what is sounds like, no grip finish.
There are also sticks with textured grip. Most higher end Warrior Alpha sticks come with a textured grip, as well as the new CCM AS4 Pro stick. Some have a finish, but you can't really notice it with gloves on (like on CCM's Ribcor Trigger 6 Pro). Also find what you like and use it.
​
WEIGHT
Next up is weight. Pretty self-explanatory. The lighter a stick is, the less it weighs. Just like how every 60 seconds in Africa, a minute passes.
Normally higher-end sticks will be lighter.
I'll list the weight of some popular sticks below. Take note that they are all approximate and are for Senior 85/87 or 75/77 flex.
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Bauer Vapor Hyperlite: 385g
CCM Ribcor Trigger 6 Pro: 375g
Warrior Covert QRE 10: 401g
True AX9: 390g
True Project X: 355g*****
True HZRDUS PX: 345g (claimed)
​
Sherwood Rekker Element One: 379g
CCM JetSpeed FT4 Pro: 380g
Warrior Alpha LX Pro: 380g
Sherwood Code V: 390g
Bauer Sling: 365g
Bauer Nexus Geo: 390g
CCM Super Tacks AS4 Pro: 374g
True Catalyst 9X: 380g
Sherwood Project 9: 430g
Bauer Supreme Ultrasonic: 390g
​
*******Actually 359g without the end plug (85 flex).
LENGTH
Most beginners don't know how long their stick should be. Normally I don't cut mine at all. I'd recommend that if, say, a 55 flex Junior stick is too long for you, go down to a 50 flex Youth stick, as cutting the stick would change how it feels on the ice (by moving the kick point up), and also making it stiffer (higher flex). If you're wondering what the numbers on the back of a stick near the top are, those are what the flex would be if you cut it there.
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STICK LIE
Stick lie is the angle of the blade in reference to the shaft. Most hockey sticks have a lie of 6.
The lower the number, the greater the angle from the blade to the shaft. The higher the number, the less the angle from the blade to the shaft is.
Normally the lie will be listed on the stick near the flex, or sometimes on the back. Some sticks won't mention it at all (which means they are probably 6). Sometimes it's mention in the curve (ie TC2.5. This is a True TC2 curve with a lie of 5, rather than 6).
Lie is a way which you can use a longer stick if you're short (like Martin St. Louis, who is 5'6", still used a standard 60" stick, but with a lie of 4). Or a shorter stick if you're tall. Just keep in mind that the higher the lie, the closer the puck will be to you, and the lower the lie, the farther the puck will be from you.
I'd recommend starting with a standard stick with a lie of 6 and going from there.
You can tell if you have correct lie by seeing your stick blade on the ground or ice. If it's quite flat, then perfect. If the heel is quite high up, then consider going down in lie. If the toe is quite high up, then consider going up in lie.
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RECOMMENDATIONS
Here I will be listing a few of my sticks and comparing similar sticks from other brands, and listing sticks to avoid. These are all from my point of view.
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Best Low Kick Point Stick: CCM Ribcor Trigger 6 Pro
The Trigger 6 Pro is by far the best low kick stick on the market. Far better than the Hyperlite and Element One. The runner up to the T6P would be the Warrior Covert QRE 10.
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Best Hybrid Kick Point Stick: CCM JetSpeed FT4 Pro and Warrior Alpha LX Pro
Both are great sticks and you can't go wrong with either. The FT4 Pro has better grip, but the LX Pro is more durable.
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Best Mid Kick Point Stick: CCM Super Tacks AS4 Pro
Far better shot power and durability than the Catalyst 9X and PX. There is no runner up.
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Sticks to avoid:
True sticks (specifically their top of the line models). They have a reputation for breaking frequently. I don't know anyone who has had a True (top of the line) stick that has lasted more than a season. If you plan on getting one, I'd recommend getting their second from top of the line models (ie AX7, Catalyst 7X, HZRDUS 9X) or below.
Sherwood Code sticks. I think we can all agree these are the ugliest sticks on the market. They are also super stiff and you will probably need to go down a flex for them. And there's so many sticks out there that are way better for not much more. ie an LX Pro or FT4 Pro, costing ~$50 more will perform way better, and will feel way better, and look way better.
CCM Ribcor Trigger 5 Pro. Has a tendency to break and has terrible balance. I would recommend the Trigger 6 Pro or Trigger 4 Pro instead.
True Catalyst 9X. The balance is way off. I'd recommend an AS4 Pro or FT4 Pro instead.
True Catalyst PX. Super fragile.
Bauer Vapor Hyperlite. The Trigger 6 Pro and Covert QRE 10 are better sticks, and the Hyperlite is fragile.
CCM Super Tacks AS3 Pro. Super fragile. I'd recommend an AS2 Pro or AS4 Pro instead.
​
Best not top-of-the-line sticks:
Ideally, you would get a last gen, or 2 generation old stick on sale instead (ie Alpha DX or QX over LX 20), but if you have to get the latest graphic, here's a list of good, cheaper, sticks. (Priced high to low, and if they are the same price, then lighter to heavier)
Low Kick:
CCM Ribcor Trigger 6
CCM Ribcor Team
CCM Ribcor 76K
Warrior Covert QRE 40
Warrior Covert QRE 60
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Hybird Kick:
Warrior Alpha LX 20
Warrior Alpha LX 30
CCM JetSpeed Team
CCM JetSpeed 475
CCM JetSpeed 465
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Mid Kick:
CCM Super Tacks AS4
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Thanks for reading this far! I hope you found this somewhat useful or at least learned something new. Feel free to add suggestions for edits in the comments below.
I would highly recommend watching one of u/HockeyReviews videos on any stick you are planning to purchase before purchasing.
​
Edit 1: Added stick lie
Edit 2: Added STX's PureGrip Taper
Edit 3: Put a big asterisk after the Project X's claimed weight...and mentioned it's actual weight
Edit 4: Added True's HZRDUS line
Edit 5: Small additions and edits
Edit 6: Lots of small edits
Lots of great info, but you forgot the wood stick section lol.
The wood stick section should have been the only section. This whole guide is useless to elite players like me who use the best wood sticks!!!
Haha can’t go wrong with a 5030, but I love my Graf sticks.
agreed, but what is your opinion on the Sherwood t20 stick, and pls don't say "just get a 5030'
Just add wood sticks: paul coffey should be printed on the shaft
Yep lol. I made it for composite sticks
Haha I’ll be eagerly awaiting that wood stick guid then.
But in all seriousness, great write up. I haven’t bought a new stick in ages so this is some good info for me. I was tempted by the 3x stick and just might go with that now.
You go so in-depth as to talk about tapers, but fail to mention the STX Surgeon line is also a five sided stick? That's it's main selling point, that it's got a profile like a lacrosse shaft and not like a hockey stick.
Take a look at some of STX's material on the Surgeon line. They're pretty intriuging sticks.
LENGTH - the rule of thumb as far back as I can remember is that a stick should come up to your chin when standing in skates. Especially if you are learning to play, a shorter stick is better than a longer stick. Why? Think about someone stickhandling with the puck. Having a shorter stick allows both hands to move freely in front of your body, which is ideal for stickhandling and shooting. A longer stick will push the elbow of your top hand closer to your body and make it more difficult to stickhandle or shoot. stick length example
BLADE STIFFNESS - All manufacturers vary the stiffness of the blade for different stick lines. CCM's Tacks/Super Tacks sticks have arguably the stiffest blades. This means the blade is far less forgiving for passing & stickhandling, but will torque less when shooting. Sherwood also makes extremely stiff blades with their sticks, especially their mid-kick or hybrid-kick sticks. I recommend newer players begin with a softer blade and decide later if they want to try something stiffer as regular or less stiff blades are more forgiving for passing & stickhandling.
Other notes/thoughts:
- True has acknowledged that their top end models sacrifice durability for weight reductions. However, True has a big focus on puck feel and their blades are arguably the best on the market in that regard. True has stated in the past that if you are looking for a more durable version of their high end sticks, buy their next price point model. That would be (as of now) the AX7 or the Catalyst 7X ($220). True is also the only remaining "major" stick manufacturer to make a mid-curve blade with a 5 lie (this pattern is in-between the P88 and PM9 curves.)
- The "kick point" of a stick is made during the manufacturing process by softening a certain section of the shaft and stiffening the other sections. The softer zone allows the stick to flex, while the stiffer zones help generate power and stability. Kick points only matter when shooting. For high kick sticks (Bauer Supreme & arguably the CCM Tacks), the kick point is between the top and bottom hands. For mid-kick sticks, the kick point is around the bottom hand (this is the most similar to traditional wooden sticks). For low-kick sticks, the kick point is found somewhere below the bottom hand but before the blade. Hybrid-kick sticks such as the JetSpeed are unique in that they have two flex (i.e. softer) sections on the shaft, one at the bottom hand and one lower. In other terms it has the flex zones of both a mid-kick and a low-kick stick, with a small stiff section between them. The idea is that it allows the greatest performance depending on shooting situation.
- Lastly, you do not need a $300 stick. If you simply want one or have the funds to afford them, go for it! But the vast majority of players will not notice a significant improvement in performance when using a $300 stick over a $150 stick. The greatest difference between these two price points is weight reduction, with top-end sticks weighing between 360-390g and mid-tier sticks weighing 420-445g. Just a few years ago, top-end sticks regularly weighed ~425g and nobody complained that they were too heavy. It's all a matter of perspective.
Durability is such a dart throw with all sticks. I play weekly year round and have had a variety of sticks snap on day 1, and a CCM ribcor ~5 years ago last 2 years.
Currently have a Suregon and the shaft is holding up fine but the blade has multiple chips missing in it.
Good luck on your journey as we all buy the %1000 markup sticks
I think blade durability is getting worse. The Warrior Alpha I have is a 12k weave and the blade is in terrific shape. Every 18k weave stick I see has cracks at the toe within a few skates.
r/hockeyplayers • [3]Summarize
Hockey gear recommendations and tips? Specifically hockey sticks?
Posted by SadEngineering7968 · in r/hockeyplayers · 3 months agoHi, as a teen starting out, I want to hear some good recommendations please! What makes a good hockey stick? Like what qualities should I look for that a stick has? Any experienced people out there, I need your help!
Flex and curve are key start with a lower flex if you're still building strength, and try a mid curve for versatility. Don’t stress too much at first, just find something that feels comfortable and helps you control the puck.
If you’re just starting out, avoid temptation to buy an absolute top end stick. It’s not needed for someone who doesn’t yet have the ability to take advantage of the technology in the stick. You need to figure out what type of kick-point you like and what works for you. It’s probably best for you to go to a local shop and try some out. Preferably a shop that has a shooting area. But if you’re open to ordering online, I’d honestly look at blackout sticks. You’ll get a top quality stick for significantly cheaper. Check out North Pro Stock. That’s who we get our sticks from.
that's great advice! I do try to pick whats more comfortable than expensive to use.
A lot of its preference. I just got back into hockey and have 4 sticks in my garage already. Finally found one I liked outside of the Wood/ABS Sherwoods. Went with a 3x3 T92.5 85 flex. As far as gear, idk how your money situation is, or your parents, but definitely try everything on, dont be afraid of used gear.
Just tape it up a and hit the ice.
I'm a teenager starting out, can't afford hundreds for a stick!
Just buy ththe most expensive o one, it's obviously the best.
Thanks for the info! I'll look into it for sure
If you settle on buying a top of the line stick, you should check out elitehockeysticks.com. They've got great deals, usually over half off
Do you have a store nearby that lets you take shots? If so, try some different blade curves and see what works best for you. Stick flex you could start by aiming for a flex that’s about half your body weight (pounds) but again it’s going to be personal preference. Brand etc doesn’t really matter for most people, but just know that different brands use different names for the same blade curve. You can look up a chart to compare online or ask in the store.
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind when I go check it out in-store
r/Fieldhockey • [4]Summarize
new to field hockey! how can i determine which stick is best for me?
Posted by minimal-evil · in r/Fieldhockey · 2 years agoI joined the field hockey team at school recently and intend to stay for the next 3 years. I found out that all of the members have their own sticks while I used the old ones from the store room during my first sessions. So far I could still play decent but I'm wondering what I should look out for when I eventually get my own stick/good brands? I'm still a bit unfamiliar with it since I'm quite new to the sport 😅 do drop some tips i could use as a beginner too~
Don’t listen to any suggestions from anyone online that recommends specific sticks. Pick up some teammates ones. Go to a store. Just see what feels most comfortable.
The first thing you should do is try the sticks of the other players in your team and see what feels good to you. Every player has their own preferences and what they like so it's just the best option to try many different sticks and see how they feel to you. After that maybe a hockey store where you can testplay the sticks before buying would be a good option too. It also matters what you want to do with your stick so getting advice from a coach isn't bad either. Most sticks have a description online to showcase what their strong points are, for example Areals, 3D skills, hitting, passing, and many more things. So in the end it just comes down to your preferences so that's the first thing you should figure out. Hope that helps to get you started!
Go and play with different sticks Different brands Different weights Different shapes Even different lengths.
See what works for you as everyone is different
From what most retailers say, a midbow stick would be a good option to start out as a beginner. As for brands, they're just personal preference anyway, so you can get away with any brand. Carbon content wise, maybe something around 70%-95% would get you more than 3 seasons worth of the stick feeling strong.
r/hockeyplayers • [5]Summarize
How to pick a stick? (New to hockey)
Posted by _jp_1 · in r/hockeyplayers · 6 years agoHey everyone! I’m new to hockey and am wondering how to pick a hockey stick. I have been playing as a forward so far. I’m about 5’8 and 155 pounds. Currently I have a Bauer Vapour that is a 65 flex but I don’t know if that is too low? I had someone tell me that my stick is an intermediate stick.. is that bad? Just curious about how you guys select a flex and size for your sticks.
Thanks for the help!
Edit: it won’t let me reply to everyone. Just wanted to say thanks for all the input!
Personal preference and budget.
Intermediate stick is fine if you like it. Johnny Gaudreau uses one, and he's a pro.
As a newbie, get something with a blade focused on control. Mid kick, not too much bend. Puck control is most important when you're starting. Also, flex probably won't make a huge difference when you're new since you're probably not loading up shots a whole lot.
From there, you'll find your play style and a blade that fits for you. I needed more elevation since tend to be in close on my shots.
Awesome, thanks!
It is all really about personal preference. Try a few different sticks and see if you like something else better.
Phil Kessel uses something like a 65 flex in the NHL.
Does he really?
I find that so hard to believe. I use a 85-90, and weighing only 190lbs while not being a professional athlete, sometimes wish I had a bit stiffer stick.
How is he not just destroying sticks all day?
Lower flex sticks are actually stronger than stiffer sticks.
Man I don't know about that. Obviously he uses a more whippy stick than a lot of guys but I think it's actually between 80 and 85. I remember a screen shot of his sticks, he writes the flex down on the knob. Depending on the day or how he's feeling he will use a different flex.
He is by all accounts a really strong guy, so maybe that's why it looks like him leaning on an 85 looks like 65.
I'll see if I can find the pic to see if I'm a liar or not
Gaudreau uses a 55flex, Kessel uses a 70flex, Chara 150flex - it's all about what works with you, your mechanics and your game. Are you shooting slappers from the blue line, or are you more a wrister from inside the dots? Do you play forward, or D or even C?
The way that sticks are measured, is that it takes whatever flex it is in pounds to bend the stick 1 inch. So a 60flex takes 60lbs to bend the stick 1 inch, and a 100flex, 100lbs. So less flex, means it's easier to load up the stick.. which might be better in game situations than just taking static slappers.
When a stick is a low-flex, it's easier to bend, but it also deforms more on shots - which can help to get quick power behind wrist shots, but could deform or break when doing hard slapshots. When receiving hard passes, low flex sticks will tend to 'ping' the puck out more because of increased elasticity, than a higher flex - so something you need to be aware of. Stick handling can also be affected with lower flex sticks.
The difference between intermediate and seniors is all about the shaft thickness (ints are slimmer for smaller hands) and this brings the flex zone down from the handle end of the stick (generally) for the same model of stick.
There's no real way to test sticks other than on the ice and over a number of games - so other than demo days, you're really just trying them until you like them or loathe them.
Same with curves, whether you got for P88, P28, P29 etc.
I hate it - that's why I have around 30 sticks at home!
It's all personal preference, intermediate are just shorter and lower flex than senior sticks, so not bad.
I'm 5'7, and intermediates are good size for me, but are too wippy for me. I buy senior 85, and cut them down to height.
The only true way is to play with one and see if it's comfortable and you like it.
Blade pattern is also alot of personal preference, so the p92 or p88 from Bauer are good starting point, and every brand has an equivalent of those two
I'm also 5'7" and prefer the size of an intermediate stick but I also prefer lower flex sticks so it works out, and I get to save a few bucks.
I'd say you're better off getting lower end sticks until you have an idea of what you want. The $300 stick is going to be lighter but also less durable, and if you find out you don't like the curve or the flex or the kick point of it, you're out a lot less with a lower or mid-tier stick. In addition it's a nice bonus when you finally find your niche how much lighter the fancy sticks are. I started a few years back and love to practice with my old sticks because it's like training with weights on in between games.
Yeah maybe I’ll see if I can trade sticks with someone for a bit at stick time or something just to get a feel for some other flex’s and stuff. Thanks!
No problem
Play it again sports and sideline swap are good resources
And two piece sticks with replacement blades are also a (relatively) cheap alternative
May your Snipes be bardown and dangles silky smooth
r/hockeygoalies • [6]Summarize
Goalie stick
Posted by Infinite-Duck393 · in r/hockeygoalies · 5 months agoWhich is the best mid-tier price point goalie stick that is also durable??
Honestly the bauer GSX is pretty nice for just over 100. The bauer X5 pro or M50 pro are great mid level sticks around 250.
I also really like my Sherwood Rekker Legend 1.
If you want durable you generally want the starting line because they're usually heavier and more robust. If I want a performance stick I'll pay top dollar, but for durability I'm getting an bottom tier Warrior stick under $100.
Is the Warrior RV3 E Good??
RV3 is a great stick.
Use caution as it has the new asymmetrical shaft geometry. It's great for those that know how to play the puck, but may be weird for beginners.
Look for RM3 E
I would pick whatever the entry level Warrior goalie stick is and go from there. So yes, I would start with the RV3 E. The more you move up the lighter and more "performance" based the stick will be and this impacts durability.
Also check out pro return sticks. I have a couple Bauer returns that have lasted a couple years
Bauer Elite and GSX are very nice
r/hockeyplayers • [7]Summarize
Choosing a hockey stick
Posted by [deleted] · in r/hockeyplayers · 6 years agoHi all, I’m new to playing hockey and as such I’m trying to pick a stick but am new to the whole process and don’t totally know what I’m talking about. My main question is how much of a curve should I look for (I don’t really have a defined position yet and am not quite sure what I’m good at) but any other general advice would be much appreciated
With sticks, generally you should pay attention to four things flex, curve, lie and height.
Lie is simply the angle in which the blade meets the shaft. Each lie will give slight advantages to certain things. Here's a link to a chart that gives you a visual representation of what lie is. http://newtohockey.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/hockey-stick-lie-angle.jpg
A higher lie has the stick blade closer to your body, making it easier to drop your weight onto the stick and flex it for a shot. A lower lie allows you to have a slightly longer stick and keep blade flat on the ice when handling the puck, but it makes it a little harder to flex the stick. But as a beginner, this is probably something you don't need to worry too-too much about.
The two most common curves are the p92 and the p88, either one would make a good curve to start with. They're both good all around curves. Every stick manufacturer has their versions of these curves. The biggest difference between the two is that with the p92 the toe has a slight twist that makes it easier to lift the puck up quickly when you're in close to the goalie.
As for stick height, this is a preference sort of thing. Some like sticks that are the same height as their nose when they're on skates. Others like the stick right around their collarbone with their skates on. This is the general range where your stick height should fall. A good starting point would be to have the stick at your chin. Not too short and no to tall. To adjust height, you can cut the stick or add an end plug. A company just recently came out with an adjustable end plug. Any way, I digress. Generally speaking, the shorter the stick, the easier it will be for you to stickhandle. The longer the stick, the easier it will be to flex your stick and shoot. A shorter stick tends to force the skater into a deeper crouch, which is good for their stride and balance. A longer stick tends to make the skater stand taller, which can hurt balance and stride.
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Other than technique, flex is probably the most important thing to pay attention to for shooting. If you get a stick that's too stiff for you, it will hinder your ability to develop a proper shot. IMHO it's better err on the side of a stick that's a tad too whippy than one that's too stiff. As for how to determine what flex is good for your, the rule of thumb you'll find all over the internet is half your body weight. I don't think that's a good starting point. It's more of an upper limit. A quick test you can do is to take a stick and try to flex it. You should be able to flex the stick one inch with almost no effort.
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To give you some examples of flex vs weight. Ovechkin is 235lbs, he uses a 80-85 flex stick which is about 36% his body weight. Austin Matthews is 223lbs and uses an 80flex, which is 36% his body weight Gaudreau uses a 55flex and he's 165lbs, which is 33% of his body weight.
And to show you some players on the opposite side of things Crosby is 200lbs and uses a 100flex. Petterson is 176lbs and uses a 85 flex.
For me, I'm 5'5 175. I use a 50 flex junior. Bauer's 2N and 2S line makes junior sticks with intermediate sized shafts and blades, and after years of fiddling with things, I find this works best for me.
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Hopefully all this can help you figure out what's best for you. Good luck.
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this is great. thanks so much!!
Not OP but this def helped me. Thank you!
Awesome regly, helpwd me a lot man, cheers
Probably a low flex, flat curved (ie: P88) stick for newer players.
Free hockey stick fittings Checkout this stick fitter, you just answer some questions about yourself and your game and it will tell you which sticks are right for you. Happy shopping ! 😄
r/hockeyplayers • [8]Summarize
How do you choose your stick curve?
Posted by vanillaacid · in r/hockeyplayers · 9 months agoNot a beginner, but growing up I was middle of the road skill-wise, and didn't really care too much about curve. Took some years off as an adult, but got back into it this year. I have a cheapish stick I picked up years ago for ball hockey, but looking to upgrade and looking a little closer at what I want to go with. I can't afford to experiment with multiple sticks lol, so looking for things you guys look at when choosing a curve.
Edit: Grew up as a defence, just play wherever now though.
I found myself in the same situation as you recently. I always preferred a straighter blade with a slight kick at the end, and have grown accustomed to using W28 from Warrior. They're said to be the equivalent of P28 in other bands like Bauer.
This is right up my alley. Every aspect of a stick is equally important. Length, flex, kick point and lie.
To keep it simple, let's talk Bauer curves. P88 is as basic as it gets. This curve can do it all. Backhand and forehand control is pretty good. Makes it handy for deflections, passing control, and keeps your shots down. For example, as you cruise through the top of the circle and take a slapshot, your shot will go about halfway up the net on average. Not a bad curve for centers.
The P92 is a little more advanced with the slightly opened toe. This will raise your shots to under the crossbar or over the net with regularity. Takes a little to get used to. I would add that this does seem to enhance puck control in traffic as well. Popular with wingers and centers.
The P28 has a toe curve. This is a more advanced curve to get used to. Great for toe drags and snapping shots off the toe through the Ds legs. More of a drag and release motion to be able to change the shooting angle for the goalie.
As a defenseman, they tend to like heel curves. Gives them more lift from further out. Also helps with digging pucks out along the boards on dump ins, I am told.
I've been playing beer league 30 years and started out with the P92, but in my 20"s I kept blowing shots over the net when in the slot as a center. This had me switching to the P88 and then took care of the shooting too high issue. Now, as a winger and older, I switched back to the P92 and loving the under the bar slappers. I like the increased control as well.
I went from the Bauer Nexus to the CCM Ribcor 96k with the P29 curve (Bauer P92 equivalent). I wanted to go back to a low kick point, but I didn't care for the Bauer Vapor and wanted to give CCM a try. Best stick I believe I have ever used. I was a big Easton fan, but when they went to the elliptical shaft, I wasn't a fan with it. Since Bauer bought them out and adopted the shaft. This is the reason I wanted to try CCM.
I will also add that the CCM blades are livelier than the Bauer blades. Shots rocket off this Ribcor I am using. You have to cradle passes a little more than Bauer sticks. I'd say the change was well worth it to me.
Most game situations to me only allow for writsters or snap shots. That's why I went back to the low kick point for the quicker release.
P92 is is most common because it is pretty versatile the way most people shoot and stick handle now. Some sticks are better for slap shots but slap shots arent very common now. Pretty much all goalies are butterfly now, so you typically have to elevate at least over the pad to score unless you go 5 hole.
If it was me i would just go with one of the common ones like 92. One weird thing about amateur sticks is they dont all have huge blades, but if you watch NHL and especially minor leagues many of them have huge blades, which I think would be better for amateurs (but maybe theyd break more? Or be more expensive to make?)
P88 is pretty common and i was using it P88 for a bit but it seemed like the lie wasnt right for the length of stick i wanted.
Funny that the thing I dislike about the P92 is how long it is. It just doesn’t suit my eye for some reason.
I find the P88 to not be terribly different curve than P92 but with a smaller blade and less rocker that I very much prefer!
Sher-wood 5030 with the Paul Coffey curve
P92 or p29 are the safest
P28 if you like a little more toe (if you suck at shooting it's hard to control and you'll miss the net a lot)
P88 if you care more for stick handling and keeping pucks low through crowds (d men and play makers that don't shoot a lot)
P90t if you like to shoot off your toe like a p28, but it's not as open, so dog shit players like me don't miss the net as much ( this is what I use)
Strictly a P28 user for 10 years, recently switched to a P88, had the best 2 games of my life. 5 goals and 3 assists. I try my best emulate Gretzky in his office when I can. Moving to P88 helped me not lose the puck. Make cleaner passes and control the pack when trying to tuck in pucks.
P88 is the best curve ever made. IMO
Damn maybe I should switch to P88. I basically chose whatever curve a teammate had available in pro stock a million years ago, which closely resembled a P92 which I was able to consistently pick top corners and bardowns on. Only problem is I’m a defenceman who should probably be more focuses on low shots through and puck control than ripping corners during warmup
Bar down from the blue line is much more scary than anything in rec hockey
Signed
- toothless netfront presence
r/Fieldhockey • [9]Summarize
Is there a popular stick/brand for professional and national level players?
Posted by Odd_Clothes4840 · in r/Fieldhockey · 1 year agoI have been researching for a new stick because I’ve mostly stayed with the same brand.
I keep looking up what the college level and national level players are using and can’t seem to find a consensus.
Do you think there’s a favorite brand or even type of stick with the high level players?
There’s a wide range of stick brands that are commonly used throughout professional and national level players. Adidas I believe is the top/most used stick brand in international play. Other popular stick brands are Osaka, TK, Gryphon, Grays, Ritual, JDH, Y1, and much more. It all depends on your preference of touch and power. Definitely do some research and ask around!! 😇
I did see a lot of adidas. Grays was another popular one. I’m a TK girlie myself. But just didn’t know if there was a ‘most popular’ brand.
I've had Slazenger, Kookaburra, Gryphon, Mercian, Brabo, GM, Malik, Rage, and now Alfa.
Go into your local hockey shop, try a few sticks out in your price range, and pick one you like. As others have said, there isn't much of a difference between the major brands these days
Honestly these are almost all made by the same manufacturers in Pakistan. Stick quality have very little variance brand to brand.
For high level Australian players the most common sticks I see are Grays, JDH, Mazon, Adidas, Ritual and Osaka.
There was a time 10ish years ago (no idea if it still is the case) where a lot of it was down to the region where the stick is from, ie British players used Grays predominantly, Germans had Adidas, Netherlands had Princess.
Nowadays it’s a mixed bag. If you’re happy with your stick brand and you know you like it then keep going, yeah you can change it as your skills develop and you think yeah I need a lowbow or a higher carbon level, I need it stiffer than what I have etc. failing that just try your teammates sticks out and see what you like about them
I’m not sure my skills will develop much more than they are now. I mostly just coach and play rec now.
But I was curious about the stick because I remember how big of a difference it made when I did upgrade. But I haven’t strayed from my favorite brand much.
I want to try Osaka but the reviews have been mixed from what I’ve seen.
really does vary as players tend to use whatever brand will pay the most… most players use grays osaka Y1 adidas or ritual.
This, it really comes down to the sponsorship they are offered.
Depending on how serious Nike are with their new Hockey department, we may soon see a lot of Nike sticks at international level
I have used almost every brand and Osaka always came out as the best one for me. They have such a great feel and power
That is wild. I always hear that Osaka is either someone’s favorite or too flimsy feeling
r/hockeygoalies • [10]Summarize
How do I choose a stick?
Posted by Yadon6139 · in r/hockeygoalies · 2 years agoSo I’m new to the whole goalie thing and I was looking at sticks. What way does the curve go if I use a left curve on a regular stick? Also I’m 6’5” so what length of stick would be good? Thank for any help!
The curve has the focal point forward based on which hand you hold your stick with. Your stick hand is determined by which hand you catch with. If you are a normal right hand dominant person, you catch with your left hand, and it is known as "regular" if you catch the other side, it's known as "full right"
https://youtu.be/bjrr4URcjWE Ingoal mag is the best for anything goalie related
https://youtu.be/kG94Y9celRU Check this out for sizing.
Even if your left handed some of the pros even will still play right handed simply because it’s easier on finding gloves/blockers easier or cheaper. If you’re new you may as well just learn “right handed”. FYI left handed playstyle is called “full right”
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hockey stick selection guide
Key Considerations for Selecting a Hockey Stick
Stick Length: The right length is crucial for comfort and performance. A general rule is that when you stand the stick on its end, the top should reach your chin or nose.
Flex Rating: The flex of a stick affects shot power and accuracy. A lower flex (e.g., 75) is better for lighter players, while a higher flex (e.g., 85-100) suits heavier players. Flex is calculated by how much the stick bends under a certain weight (usually 100 lbs).
Blade Curve: The curve of the blade influences puck control and shot types. A more pronounced curve helps with wrist shots and puck handling, while a flatter curve is better for passing and slap shots.
Material: Most modern sticks are made from composite materials, which provide a good balance of weight and durability. Wood sticks are heavier and less common but can offer a different feel.
Grip: Some sticks come with a textured grip for better handling, while others are smooth. Choose based on your preference for feel and control.
Weight: Lighter sticks (around 400-500 grams) allow for quicker movements and better handling, but may sacrifice some durability.
Recommendations:
- For Beginners: Consider a mid-range stick like the CCM Ribcor Reckoner, which offers good flexibility and control.
- For Intermediate Players: The Bauer Vapor 2X Pro is a great option, known for its lightweight design and excellent puck feel.
- For Advanced Players: The Warrior Alpha DX Pro provides a high level of performance with a focus on shot accuracy and power.
Takeaway: Choose a stick that matches your playing style, position, and personal preferences. Trying out different sticks in-store can help you find the best fit.
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