TL;DR Use a flashlight to illuminate the reservoir, and check if the fluid level is between the minimum and maximum lines. If the fluid level is low, it might indicate brake pad wear rather than a leak.
Using a Flashlight
One of the most effective ways to check brake fluid levels is by using a flashlight. Shining a light on the reservoir can help you see the fluid level more clearly, especially if the reservoir material is opaque [1:2]
[2:2]. A slight bump with your hand can also rock the fluid, making it easier to see
[1:3].
Understanding Fluid Levels
It's important to understand that fluid levels naturally decrease as brake pads wear down. This doesn't necessarily mean there's a leak [1:2]
[2:3]. Topping off the fluid without replacing worn brake pads can lead to overflow during brake service
[1:2]. If the fluid level is below the minimum line, it's crucial to add fluid to avoid dangerous driving conditions
[4:1].
Testing Brake Fluid Quality
Besides checking the fluid level, testing the quality of the brake fluid for moisture content can be done using a multimeter [5]. This method helps identify excess moisture, which can lower the boiling point of the fluid and affect performance
[5:2]. Regularly testing and maintaining fluid quality can prevent costly repairs later
[5:1].
Additional Considerations
If you find that your brake fluid warning light is on, it could indicate low fluid levels or other issues like clogged brake lines or a failing master cylinder [4:2]
[4:5]. It's advisable to consult a trusted mechanic or knowledgeable friend if you're uncertain about the condition of your brakes
[4:5].
Every time I go to check my break fluid to see if it’s between the min and max line, I have a hard time seeing the fluid. I know for certain I have fluid in there but it’s hard to see. Any tips / advice
Put a flash light on the resevoir. Fluid lowering overtime is normal as it corresponds with brake wear, not a leak. Topping it off just makes a mess during a brake service when all the excess fluid is pushed out of the resevoir.
Use a flashlight one side and look at the other. A slight bump with your hand will rock the fluid so you can see the fluid inside if it’s really clear.
Yep, flashlight. Also, if the fluid is at/near the bottom line and you don't have any leaks; don't add any. It means you need brake pads.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip. I know I’ll need break pads probably within this year. I’ll look out for that
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Asking a really stupid question.
I got a Honda Civic Sedan 2010. I was just checking the brake fluid and I'm not sure if the fluid is low/gone.
I tried to take the cap off and the filter to look inside but couldn't get a very good view. I could see no fluid floating at the top and couldn't peer any further down the reservoir as it was too dark.
Do you think I have no brake fluid here? Or is the slightly blue tinge some fluid?
Easiest way to see the level is to put a small light directly on top of the reservoir with the light shining into the reservoir. The opaque material of the reservoir can make it very hard to see the level without a light.
*translucent
Thanks for the tip. I just tried it and looks like there is brake fluid in it and the levels should be fine.
As brakes wear down your fluid will drop in level a bit as an fyi. Dont panic no need to top off.
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Hello, I recently bled my brakes just because a friend said they do it when they change pads. I removed all the old brown-ish brake fluid and replaced it with DOT-3 which is what the car says is fine. I kept bleeding until it got to the new fluid, probably mixed with some old. Not perfectly clear but definitely not brown. Now I've run into a problem because I have a note on my brake fluid cap that says, "The amount of brake fluid shall be checked by max-min indication on the rear reservoir tank".
I don't know if there's different colors of DOT-3, this is my first time doing it but my fluid is clear to clear-yellow or something. The tanks are translucent white. I cannot tell if I've gone past MAX-MIN. I do know what it was like before I did my brakes, basically there's a little filter cup and it had a little bit of fluid in it. I filled it to that level.
However I am worried that it may be overfilled. From what I can tell the rear reservoir tanks top is below the area where you put in fluid, so it was above max before and after bleeding and refilling, it's at the same point, but that means its above max.
Either way, my question is, how can I tell because I've tried shining a light and I can't make out the fluid in the translucent white reservoir tank. So I'm worried that I may have too much fluid which is concerning but at the same time, this car never had the brake fluid changed. I see people saying bad things can happen with too much fluid but I can't tell easily where I'm at so hoping there's a way or a trick someone knows when dealing with this rear reservoir.
Thanks in advance!
Use a bright flashlight. You might have to shine the light BEHIND to get a better idea of the level.
Thanks! I was using a flashlight before, couldn't see anything because it was really overfilled. I finally decided to remove fluid. It's now within max-min. The flashlight was definitely needed or at least a light cleaning and a bright day. I did break out a flashlight that can rotate which came in handy.
Messaged you!
Hi! I have a Chevy cobalt 2008 (I call her Bertha 🤣) but my break fluid warning had come on about 2 weeks ago but only when the car was in park basically. Just came home from work today and the light flashed multiple times in my trip, for reference I have about a 17 minute commute and I noticed it come on about 6 times. I checked the break fluid and it is just below the min line. My breaks have squealed since I’ve gotten them basically and they were changed about a year ago but it didn’t help the squealing…sorry if I sound car dumb right now I know nothing about cars except for what I’ve gotten online lol. Also the reason I am kinda stupid for asking on Reddit but hopefully someone has come across the same thing and saves me from getting a higher bill than I should cause atp I know it’s gotta go to the shop or I gotta study some YouTube.
Thank you!
It could be a clogged brake line somewhere, I'd go ahead and bleed your brakes (there's videos on YouTube for this), and see if any of the bleed valves have extra air/dont let out brake fluid. Could be your problem, you'd need new brake lines at that point. (I've done this like four times on my cobalt, it's fairly simple & cheap, especially if you're able to figure out which line & replace just that one.) It could also maybe be your brake master cylinder failing to cycle brake fluid through all of your brake lines. But to me, from what you've listed as issues I would start with bleeding your brakes to see if you can find a blockage somewhere.
I’m with the other guy, definitely bleed the brakes, and if they have been squealing since you put them on, check to see if your brake caliper is seized. Mine didn’t squeal but it was like a metallic rubbing noise. My brake pads didn’t release all the way with the caliper, also did you only replace the front? The rear drums also have a tendency to squeal pretty bad as well, depending on mileage and road conditions. I lived on a dirt road and they got abused regularly, a pot hole ended the life of one of my drum brakes due to the force.
Also, YouTube YouTube YouTube, these cars have so many videos on them in my opinion, can almost find anything. For repairs I like 1A auto but they don’t cover everything.
All 3 break pads were replaced but I didn’t realize back then that the pads and fluid run hand in hand too so we didn’t add more break fluid. So bleed the breaks and look up how to check break caliper gotcha. Top up the break fluid or no? I’m seeing mixed answers about it but I’m guessing since we didn’t add more fluid last time that maybe that could fix it….maybe?
Top up the brake fluid! It is dangerous to run low!
If your fluid is below minimum, add fluid and see if light goes out. That brake light might also be used to indicate your parking brake is on.
Do you have a mechanic you trust? Or a friend who is actually knowledgeable about working on cars?
The brake fluid has to have gone somewhere. I imagine there must be a leak in the system, or somehow the fluid wasn't topped up when the brakes were last serviced.
Make it a habit of checking brake fluid levels maybe every other gas fill up when you are in the engine bay checking your engine oil and coolant levels.
Get yourself a bottle of DOT4 brake fluid and fill the reservoir back up to the full line. Having the fluid too low will introduce bubbles and may stop your brakes from working entirely.
As for the squealing, an inspection of each wheel is in order with that corner of the car jacked up securely.
I’m sure the fluid required is DOT 3.
DOT3 and DOT4 are interchangeable. DOT4 has a higher boiling point.
Hi! Idk how to edit the post but updateeee. Took it to the shop and they flushed the breaks and topped up the break fluid and she’s running like a champ, thank you everyone for your comments!!!
Yes, a multimeter. One of those clunky square things with a red and a black probe.
You can use a multimeter to test your coolant and brake fluid for excess moisture.
These are easy things to regularly check and maintain on your own, to save you from a more costly repair later.
Edit: here is a quick explainer video demonstrating exactly how to test your brake fluid.
Basically, the multimeter is measuring the presence of water. This is also how those specialty brake fluid testers work.
If the brake fluid is still good, all you'll need to do is top up and you're fine. If the brake fluid has begun to go bad, its good to know this early on because the solution, if caught early can be as simple as a fluid replacement, instead of a costly fluid system flush.
Dude why does this even matter lol, a huge bottle of brake fluid is 6$ at autozone. You should flush your brakes when you do a brake pad replacement. Brake fluid is designed to absorb water, it just lowers the boiling point, which in almost every case bar high performance cars it doesn’t make any significant performance difference.
The purpose of testing the fluid goes beyond just the brake fluid. If you're trying to diagnose a problem, its way cheaper to use a super easy test like this to eliminate the fluid as a source of the problems before going out to spend money on something you may not need.
The cheapest car is a well-maintained car. Part of maintenance is knowing what to test for, and how to spot signs of a problem.
Dude water from condensation in the brake fluid is not going to be an identifier of any problem. If you have any sort of leak, you’ll have no brake pressure.
Could you test your fuel for moisture content by using a multimeter?
How
The level is right below the word MAX, which is fine. The brake fluid should only be at the MAX line if you have just installed brand-new pads and rotors on all four wheels. As the brake parts wear, more fluid is needed to make everything touch and slow you down. That’s normal. You don’t need to add fluid at this time.
The color looks reasonable. It starts out clear and yellows as it ages. The fluid picks up moisture from the air, especially if the cap isn’t tight. Moisture ages the fluid and makes it work more poorly. Generally it should be replaced every three years as it will pick up too much moisture to work well by that age. If it looks brown, it’s way overdue or your brakes are badly overheating.
It’s easier to check if you hold a light on the far side of the reservoir. The light makes the fluid easier to see.
To clarify: if you add fluid now, the next time your brake pads are changed it will overflow and make a big corrosive mess. You should only add brake fluid when it’s below the low mark, and then take it straight to a mechanic to find out why because that will only happen if your brakes have a leak. Leaky brakes are dangerous.
That is most definitely a kia **BRAKE** reservoir.
I just shine a flash light to better see the level. Yours looks fine. Do flush it periodically - every 3-4 years, regardless of mileage. The red filter piece does not come out (easily). I use a motive power bleeder to do mine. Makes it a one person job. In the stinger without brembo's, 1 32oz bottle was enough to do all 4 calipers.
The fluid appears to be right about at the bottom of the word "MAX".
Actually earlier when i use to chek its appers red and noticeable today i checked i cant see any red fluid
Red fluid would be power-steering hydraulic fluid or transmission fluid. Brake fluid is clear when new and yellowish as it ages. If past golden brown, it’s way overdue for replacement.
Brake fluid is clear when new and turns into dark brown/golden brown when older sometimes greenish.
You weren't looking at the same fluid lol
Put a flashlight on container to light it up
There's a big gap between Max and Min so fill to where you think is near the max and you'll be fine. From the photo it looks like you are perfect where it is.
Flush. When brake fluid becomes dark it is time to change. It breaks down over time.
Flush it anyways, not bad to do it every 3 years. Coloration does not tell you everything. Most oems recommend it every 3 years. Brake fluid loves water and moisture and likes to rust your shit from the inside out.
Thank you all very much. I learned a lot from everyone's responses. I will definitely check the brake pad and will also do a flush since it's been awhile. Good to know about not just topping it off.
As long as you don't hear any grinding, just top it off. A flush is just a scam from the dealership to suck some more money out of your pockets. 400k on my old chevy, never a flush, never a problem.
This is horrible advice.
First, fluid levels get low when pads are worn. Check the pads, you may need new brake pads. As soon as you reset the pistons for new pads the fluid level will increase. If you top-off the fluid level now, you will overflow the reservoir on a reset, and will be required to bleed the reservoir down before resetting the pistons.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture, water moisture in the fluid will boil and present air in the line severely affecting braking, additionally water will introduce other issues like bacteria, and rust. A bleeding flush when you change your pads is a good thing. Especially if your vehicle has ABS. The ABS hydraulic module has many small passages and parts, and dirty fluid will damage this rather expensive unit and cause further issues.
If you leave the system sealed fluid change only needs to be like once every 100,000 miles 10 years, unless you drive and brake hard.
Check your brakes, if they are under 3mm swap the pads and rotors, and since you have the tires off, flush the brake fluid
Are you asking how to check the reservoir? Or the caliper’s? Brake fluid starts out clear and will darken over time. There is a service interval recommended in the users manual for your specific model.
Mainly how to check the quality to see if it actually needs to be replaced
I think they sell test strips to check the fluid quality,but I have never used them.It would be like checking a pools chemicals.You take a sample on the strip then compare it to a color chart.
I generally check it every few months. Typically if its dark its time for a change. Even if its soon than the service interval recommends.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs atmospheric moisture over time), this is bad for a number of reasons (corrosion, ice-locking in the lines in freezing temperatures - can prevent brake application, etc..), so it is important to replace it as recommended by the service manual (usually every 2 years/ 40,000km).
Just do it based on the service interval and you'll be fine. If not to at least crack the bleeders open so they don't get seized.
Hint, don't do this on an old car unless you're prepared and ready to replace calipers lol
When i changed mine the fist time i LOOKED okay in the resevoir But when i bled the lines rusty muddy brake fluid came out. Definitely do it.
It's not just the color you need to check. It's the amount of water in the brake fluid like these. Brake fluid absorbs moisture when open to the atmosphere.
Phoenix Systems 8006-B Double-Ended Coolant + Brake Fluid Test Strips (15 foil wrapped test strips), 1 Pack https://a.co/d/9RnFd1U
Just went to the dealership today and I don’t entirely trust them. Unfortunately, I also don’t have much experience with cars. So I don’t have a great reference point on where I’m at on the fluid level.
I’m at 20100 miles roughly. Haven’t hit the 3 year mark either. It does look low, but as I’m still under manufacture warranty it’s possible they just want some money out of me today.
I live in a semi humid area, if that makes a difference.
Brake fluid goes bad because it accumulates water over time. While color and level are important, you cant look at brake fluid and know if its bad. You need to test it to measure the water content.
This! Brake fluid is hydroscopic and when you get more than 3% water content you should replace it. They sell simple testers for cheap so you can check it and determine that yourself.
Hygroscopic = readily absorbs water
Hydroscopic = relating to instruments that measure water in some way
Looks fine. Mine turned from clear to this color in 5000 miles.
Just curious - do you also live in a humid area?
Also brake fluid getting low is normal. No need to top up as long as it’s not below low line. As your brakes wear, fluid gets pulled into the calipers. Once you put new pads on after pushing the pistons back in the fluid will get back to normal. If you top up, next time you compress the pistons in for new pads, it will overflow.
No. I live in Colorado. Dry as fuck. I zap light switches all year. Even in summer.
There should be min and max marks on the side of the reservoir. If anything that looks a little high.
Color looks ok. A little darker than I would expect for 20k miles but at that point you’re about halfway through the typical lifespan of a normal synthetic fluid.
I don’t see anything here that needs to be urgently addressed but you want to avoid having the cap off/loose. Take another pic at your next maintenance interval and compare.
Thank you for the advice!
It can wait but it's surprisingly dark for only 3 years / 20k miles. Humid area. Okay.
Keep an eye on it, maybe do it next year.
Less than 3 years - currently approaching 2 in September. Got the car with less than 50 miles on it.
Shit. Mine looks like used oil. I better change ASAP
A couple of disclaimers:
I drive a 2012 GMC Yukon SLT. The issue: twice this year I've had a few lights go off on my dash (not check engine) and when I use my BlueDriver reader it tells me my brake fluid is low. So far I've just topped it up and continued on, but there's obviously an issue.
I did hear some squeaking when braking about a month ago. It was only once or twice, and I figured it was a rock or something caught in there as I've had low pads in the past and it was different than this. Once I've topped up the fluid, braking has been as expected: pedal doesn't go to the floor and I stop like normal. I don't remember when I last had my brakes and rotors replaced.
I took off the rear driver's side tire today to have a look. Here's the pics:
https://imgur.com/a/MvPDfca
Pads on this one are more 1/4" and the rotors don't look terrible to me, but I'm obviously no expert.
Looking for a little guidance here: am I wrong about the pads and rotors and just need to replace and that should keep the fluid in check? Could I be leaking somewhere but it's just not making it to the ground? Is there something else I should be looking for?
And I guess finally, I see pads and rotors on Amazon for about 60% than my local shop. I hate supporting them, but right now the money matters. Any concerns if going that way?
Thanks in advance if anyone can help
The leak may very well be out the backside of your master cylinder INTO your brake booster. Unbolt the master and pull it forward just a little bit... does brake fluid run out? Or can you dip the end of a ty-wrap in and see if there is brake fluid on the end... There shouldn't be.
But then again, the ABS unit, if you have one, might be leaking from a position that doesn't make the leak obvious.
Some cars and truck are more likely to have this problem than others but you didn't bother to tell us... So Good Luck with your diagnosis.
Came to mention this and you already said it. I have had several masters leak into the booster. Easy to take the nuts off for a peek, don’t even need to break the brake lines loose.
You will usually see it dripping out of the bottom of the booster. The fluid will also eat up the rubber inside the booster and ruin it.
I’ve seen 3 Acadias in my time wrenching with at least 1L of brake fluid in the booster due to master cylinder leakage. Had one where fluid sucked into the intake from the vacuum tube too. GM is the only brand I’ve ever seen this shit on lmao
If I were OP I’d start here
Would there be a film of brake fluid inside the vacuum hose leading away from the brake booster? Could the fluid be being sucked into the engine?
There would have to be an insane amount of brake fluid in that booster for the vacuum hose to suck it up. It's not impossible by any means, but you would need one of those larger bottles of brake fluid worth for it to get sucked into the intake manifold.
There might be. I've had several vehicles over the years that ingested brake fluid into their masters and not all visibly had brake fluid in the vacuum hoses.
More obvious sign is the paint on the booster under the master is peeling off.
GM masters are known to leak into the booster, I would put money on it.
Probably the brake booster. There's probably a vacuum tube coming out of it in the engine bay you can pull out and check for wetness. You can also check the firewall for brake fluid inside the cabin where your feet go
This dude may be on to something. I’ve had master cylinders leak into the booster causing mysterious brake fluid loss before. Stick a zip tie down the vacuum port in the booster and see if it comes out wet. If so, there’s your problem.
Youndid not post the make model and year of car. it matters.
Brake system are a closed system, meaning that you should never have to add fluid. In a good system, low fluid indicates that the wear surfaces (pads/shoes) are worn down and need to be replaced.
The fluid has left the reservoir to take up the space of the worn components in the caliper pistons or wheel cylinders. Replace the wear surfaces.
The Pistons get pushed back and the fluid level and the reservoir goes back up.
If this isn't the case, then you definitely have a leak and sometimes it can be tricky, especially on rear wheel cylinders where the dust and dirt can absorb the fluid of a slow leak making it difficult to spot.
how to check brake fluid level
Here’s how to check your brake fluid level:
Locate the Brake Fluid Reservoir:
Check Fluid Level:
Inspect Fluid Condition:
Add Brake Fluid if Necessary:
Replace the Cap:
Important Tips:
By following these steps, you can ensure your brake system is functioning properly and maintain your vehicle's safety.
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