I, too, have an all-in-one living room / dining room / laundry room / office / workshop / art gallery / masterbatorium.

You used that in a living space.  Absolute chaos lover.

I’m here for the chaos of planing off the finish (and an extra 1/16th inch inside your dining room. This is some shit my dad would do.

May I ask the brand? It worked extremely well!

Just when you think you’ve seen everything, the Internet has to offer… Inside the house? And you gouged the crap out of that top… Those machine marks will not be easy to remove.… $20 worth of varnish remover would’ve done much better job…

But... why? What did that poor table do to you?

But inside the house? What kind of sorcery did you put your wife under??!!

Good lord I've got to get a planer !

Oh wow! Close ups please!!!

Looks pretty awesome!

Hard dried glue is tough on blades.

You can try a wet paper towel next time before the glue dries. This method doesn't work great for me personally. It seems to still leave a smear of glue they only shows up when I'm trying to apply finish.

You can also wait till the glue starts to set, but is still soft and then clean most of it with a putty knife or chisel or something.

All that said, that's for next time.

I wouldn't bother with an electric hand planer. They are fairly rough tools and not too good if you want to do fine woodworking. They work great if you need to take a quarter inch off a door or do something with framing lumber.

Hand planes are great. Again, this will be hard on the blade, but I've done it plenty and it's not an unreasonable ask of your tool, imo. Vintage Stanley no 5s abound for reasonable price. They are a great first plane. Most times they come at least needing to be sharpened. Often need to be cleaned as well

A new premium plane is gonna set you back several hundred bucks. I wouldn't recommend cheap new planes, though everyone's mileage varies, I guess.

Coming in with a chisel first does a good job for me if knocking off all the big beads and hunks before coming back in with a plane. Don't strike the chisel, just use two hands and work down the glue line

I have a cheap (big box store) block plane that I use to knock residual glue off with followed by some sanding.

For glue I prefer using a card scraper. I have never been able to make good use of electric hand planers for anything.

Paul sellers has a good video on sharpening card scrapers. I used to occasionally fuck it up but with his method I can get one sharp in like 2-3 minutes. Also get or make a jig to hold it. I did a whole table flexing the card with my thumbs and my hands were fucked for a couple days after.

That said If it's less than 12" wide and more than 12" long- I just hand plane the glue off one side- not caring if I leave plane marks- and then throw it through the planer and lap both sides. I've been doing a lot of panels recently and this is the fastest method I've come up with. If the final panel is wider than 12" then I glue up and plane in 12" or less sections and then join and scrape those. I also leave my boards 1/16 above final thickness too or sometimes more if they have a little cup.

A couple thoughts.

First of all, why is anyone downvoting this? This is r/beginnerwoodworking, not r/woodworking. Cut that shit out.

Second, there are a few ways to attack this. Bear with me, because I'm not an expert at this either. You can scrape it with something like a paint scraper that isn't so sharp that it'll cut into the wood and it might help scrape off the glue drops. Another option is to just sand it out, but there's the potential to sand unevenly while trying to target the glue.

You mentioned hand planes. That's an option, too. If you're interested in hand tool woodwork, there are a million options out there, but I would say start with a number 5 or equivalent size. That's a plane that's roughly 14 inches long. Stanley created that numbering system and most companies adopted it, but some didn't. For example, the equivalent length Miller's Falls plane is called a number 14 (based on the length). That's a good plane for all-around work- it can smooth, it can surface and joint, it can remove stock, etc. After that, if you feel you need to get more planes, look for a number 4 in good shape (again, Miller's Falls has the equivalent number 9). Those are the two you'll use the most, and some folks would say that they're the only two you really even need. But that's up to you. Personally, I've owned a number 7 Stanley jointer for about 4 years and barely ever use it.

I've never used an electric hand plane, but I'm told they don't do nice finish work, but I would definitely check out some video reviews before deciding how you feel about them.

Lastly, one of the best ways to take care of these glue drops is to wipe them with a wet cloth or paper towel as the glue squeezes out before it has a chance to dry. This is the best way to prevent having to take care of this kind of thing. I'm bad about that and always find myself chipping away at them with a screwdriver or whatever is closest in my garage.

I hope this helps, and best of luck with whatever you're building!

As an old man who's been doing this for a hundred million years, here's my advice. If the dried glue is a relatively thin layer I would pull out the orbital sander and get to it. Start with an 80 grit paper and see how it goes. If you don't have an electric sander then do it the old fashioned way. You'll learn why sanding is known as the woodworkers least favorite part of the job! If the dried glue is filling a big crack or a hole or something you can try a couple of things. 1) run it through a planer if you have access to one. Using an electric hand planer could work, but it can be difficult to keep an even thickness across the board. 2) if you have some good sharp chisels you could literally cut out the bad spots and insert what's called an inlay - that is, if you have more of the same wood as your board. This is more of an advanced way to do it and it can be very difficult to create an inlay that blends in nicely. I would personally recommend the sanding route. You'd be surprised by how much material a 60 or 80 grit sandpaper can remove. After you remove the bad spots, sand it all down with a 120 grit, then a 180 or 200 and your board will feel smooth like glass. Good luck!

You'll cut more than you intend. Their ideal for roughing. They are very easy to fuck up the piece your working on Vs a traditional planer where you have to work to fuck it up.

An electric hand planer and a manual hand plane do very different things. Electric planers like that are more of a carpentry wood removal tool. Manual hand planes can do quite a lot, but tend to be used more as a hand-tool experiential thing. This isn't to talk down on them, I use them a ton, they just aren't fast compared to powered tools like jointers and thickness planers.

What are you trying to accomplish with the tool?

That manual hand plane in particular isn't good, and you aren't going to get any use out of it without knowing exactly what you are doing and how to tune it up to do what you need. Don't buy it. There is a learning curve with manual hand planes, and so even a good one will require learning and practice to get good results. Ironically the cheap ones actually require more experience to get good results out of because you'll need to know how to reshape the blade, flatten the sole, grind down bad machining, etc. and you need experience to understand what good results look like.

The power plane is more of a construction tool, great for things like shaving down a warped stud while framing, or quickly knocking an 8th off the edge of a door that’s too tight in the frame. More often than not you’ll find that it just removes material too aggressively for most precise woodworking tasks. Sometimes it does come in handy though, I found it great for removing the layer of spongy, weathered wood from the surface of a big reclaimed slab.

Lie Nielson No.5 Jack Plane. Expensive but you will never regret getting it (https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4065/bench-planes)

The power planer is the drunk big brother of the belt sander, basically.

I have one for turning firewood sized logs into small stock for projects, because they start out too rough and heavy.

Those cheap manual handplanes with the 2 screws for adjustment suuuuuck! Well, the adjustment mechanism's design sucks (hard to adjust blade depth while keeping it straight), you're better off removing them and adjusting the blade with a hammer as with wooden hand planes

IMO neither of those options. The electric one is more for rough construction work. They'll get you into trouble quickly on furniture sized pieces.

That style of plane where you adjust the blade with the two thumb screws is a terrible introduction to hand tools. They are difficult to adjust and the blade steel may or may not hold an edge.

For new metal planes something in the Stanley Bailey style or for new wooden planes ECE style.

There are a lot of options depending on budget. The best bet is to get something from a woodworking store. Rockler, Woodcraft, Tools for Working Wood, Dictum, Highland Woodworking.

I have both of these, but I have never developed the skill to use them effectively. I end up removing too much material in a few places. I have built a simple sled for a handheld router. I find it a lot more easier to use the router to plane any surface, compared to using the electric planer.

FYI, you can purchase a sandpaper cleaning "eraser" - for lack of a better word, for about $10

Board looks great!

OK. So now I'm obsessed with making this board. Are the plugs 3/8? The spripes 1/8? Thank you.

So, order of operations wise, did you glue up the grid then drill and plug the intersections?

I love optical illusion boards and this one is freaking awesome!

Dammit, it’s doing that dark circle thing… nice work!

I wish this thing was 3 1/2 and not 3 1/4 so you could do a 2x4 in one pass.

What's the unit number? I have so much planing to do I might as well start an airport. A budget friendly model would be fantastic.

Was this a result of the post I shared on the planer deal? Just curious.

On my list, just haven't gotten one yet.

I have this tool and use it quite often. If things are not fitting together quite right sometime a quick pass with the planer brings everything in line. And not having to untangle an extension cord just makes it better. I should mention on odd days I pretend to be a hand tool woodworker and go for the Stanly No 5. Just saying.

I own this. I have used it to take a few 32nds off some shelves and doors. It has worked great for that purpose. No more stuck doors and result is nice and clean.

I have owned this for a couple of years. It’s ok, but nothing amazing. I mainly use it for doors.

I grabbed it on sale too!! Couldn't believe the price and figured it would get canceled.

Works well. Helpful when your measurements are off by just a bit. I enjoy having it.

I have this planer.  It works great.  

Manual

The Dewalt is a turd Keep good blades on what you have and rock it out. I have a Ridged that everyone said oh man 6pu can't line the tables up and it will gouge. I took off the tables on each end, put sharp blades on it. 10 years later still works great