Home Depot has their wall saw . But not sure if they can cut pieces that they don’t sell. Would be minor fee

The MakerFX makerspace is a wonderful resource of you're doing a lot of projects like this.

If you just need the one cut let me know and we can figure out a time.

Shameless plug as well, Maker Faire Orlando is coming up soon in November!

Gotcha. Have you considered joining a maker space? I'm a longtime member of Familab in Longwood and we're currently looking for a few new members.

https://www.familab.org/

I would just buy a cheap circular saw to start rebuilding your tool collection.

I have been planning a build like this for the longest time ! I was looking at the collapsible shelf arms on amazon for the supports instead of full fold out legs.

Do you have any plans of your build ?

Bought a table from Ikea that looks the same a couple of years ago. its at our summer cottage .

This is brilliant.

I'll be copying this. With some additional drawers and/or shelves it's gonna provide a clever storage for battlemats and terrain, too.

I actually bought a table almost exactly like this at a tagsale 2 years ago. Fold up dinner table. I had a buddy of mine, who is a much better woodworker than I am, add some shelves under it for terrain storage, and doors to hide it all. It's just barely big enough for 2k points of AOS. If you enjoy yours even half as much as I enjoy mine you're a lucky man, haha.

Looks dope!

I was planning to get two of those ikea tables that fold to unfold and butt together but this looks WAY cheaper then 500$ on two tables.

I like your two expanding support legs design, fairly simple but more effective then the single left that the ikea tables use.

Nice design. I'm about to convert my tables to something similar. I currently have 4, 44"x30" tables on wheels, but I am looking to save space when not playing.

Pick up a handsaw

All tools are an extension of the human using it.

The answer should be clear cut.

If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe.

Prompt: cut a piece of wood.

Result: piece of wood cut by mitre saw, but it's not the right piece of wood.

New prompt: cut a piece of 2x4 pine wood.

Result: proper piece of wood cut, but in the wrong spot.

New prompt: using remaining 2x4 pine wood from original prompt, cut 2 inches off the end.

Result: 3 inches cut off.

A new seed is chosen to generate a new tree for a new piece of wood.

New prompt: cut a piece of 2x4 pine wood measuring ((exactly 6 inches long)) at ((exactly 90 degrees)), cinematic lighting, 4k visuals, in the style of Jesus the Carpenter, hand made aesthetic, hand saw aesthetic.

New negative prompt: cut to 7 inches, cut to 5 inches, oak, cedar, balsa.

Result: correct piece of wood is cut with proper specifications, but saw blade was dull and splintered the edges of the wood preventing a clean result.

Me: good enough.

Everyone else: SLOP.

Well done but be aware: Having done that myself a few years ago, it’ll just make you want a proper router lift and fence in short order.

I do the same, never wanted for a lift. You are losing a lot of depth of cut with that base, I use a piece of 1/8 steel.

If that is your only option, sure, you can, but it's not ideal, especially for rip cuts and hard materials. But never put a table saw blade on a mitre saw. If you need a budget option, WEN sells 10” table saw blades on Amazon for $20. I'd recommend that as an alternative. They are adequate for most things. They are by no means a top-quality blade, but they do the job just fine and last, especially if you keep them clean.

So, the basics: Mitre saw blades have a negative angle on the tooth, table saws have a positive angle.

For something like Aluminium or plastics, this can actually be an advantage on the table saw to have a blade with a negative angle.

BUT

DO NOT USE A TABLE SAW BLADE ON A MITRE SAW! Unless you want to massively increase the risk of getting kickback (Disclaimer: YOU DO NOT!) from your mitre saw.

You want less hook for a table saw blade. Or even no hook. The blade turns towards you on the table saw pushing wood up and at you. More hook = more push. On a miter saw more hook helps hold the wood to the fence. You can still use it on both saws, less hook is just safer on a table saw.

you can try it if course. the cutting geometry of the saws are different. that's why there are different blades. the cutting may be harder/slower... but yes it will cut wood if it's put in a tablesaw. cut quality might be different

You can even put a negative hook blade on a table saw.

https://youtu.be/LTQolAMubMU?si=Rz2bNKXrWkAkaxs1

The Powermatic 66 has a left tilt blade which generally makes cutting with the blade tilted easier because it reduces the chance of the stock getting stuck between the blade and fence .. reducing the chance of kickbacks

I have been using a Powermatic 65 cabinet saw from the 60's for 30 years now and still love it. Go for the Powermatic 66.

There was somewhere near an infinite amount of Delta unisaws made. At least in my area they are far more common than anything else. I found mine for 400 bucks. At Powermatic 66 would also fit the bill, but I very rarely see them.

My preference is for the older, US made unisaw. However, there were a lot of quality tools coming out of Taiwan, 20 and 30 years ago. I would not hesitate to buy one of those.

I would search for the saw that has the best fence. Biesemier, Unifence, or similar would be the way to go. The old, tubular rail style Delta fences aren't exactly bad, but the Biesmeyer gives you much better repeatability and a faster setup. It was such a good fence that Delta bought it, and when the patent expired everybody copied it. 99% of the high quality fences on the market are a direct copy of that fence today. Everyone from grizzly to jet to sawstop makes an almost identical copy - it's that good.

I was 66 user for over 30 yrs, but the Saw stop is just better, not just the safety, but they dont use trunnions, they have 4 posts to hold motor. Very smooth, the riving knife is below the blade so you dont have to remove it to make kerf dado. Have blank throat plates and has great adjustment for them. The dust collection has a catch and hise right below blade

Sawstop, fingers are nice.

I have had a grizzly 1023 for 20++ years and I never regretted the purchase. It has been a great saw and so much better than the contractor saw it replaced

Bandsaws are superior for specific tasks, but table saws are the workhorses. I would go for the table saw. I might continue to use the track saw to break down larger sheet goods, but then bring the pieces to the table saw for accurate trimming.

Which is better depends on the projects you plan to make. With what you've said in your post, a table saw is more important.

I would go table saw. Sort of depends on what you do/prepare to make.

Once you get one thing, it's never too long before you need or want something else haha so it's tricky on a budget.

I think it’s a mindset. Most of the people I’ve met who build their shop around a bandsaw are hand tools people; most of the people who build around a table saw are power tools people. I can’t imagine not having a table saw, but I also reach for a router to put a chamfer on my work instead of a hand plane…

Tablesaw is #1 used tool in shop unless you are doing very specific types of woodworking that dont require it.

And get a sawstop, cause you know, fingers.

If you got the paper, festool is the best in those categories. That being said, dewalt 780 and 779 is the golden standard of miter saws.

“Pro Level” is very subjective depending on what you are using it for- framing, frame to finish, finish work and cabinetry for example. If you want an all around saw that will do everything, I would go for a Dewalt dual bevel 12” saw and stand. Doesn’t take up a crazy amount of space in a truck or van and is an absolute workhorse for whatever you need it for. I have had mine for 14 years and it is still rock solid.

If you are valuing portability over anything, I would highly recommend the Ridgid 18V brushless cordless 7 1/4” dual bevel sliding miter saw. Battery powered and you can lift it with two fingers. The cons would be the small blade is very inefficient for framing, but it is so easy to move around I almost always use it for finish work. You can take it on a roof if you are siding dormers, and I work in Boston with coffin corner brownstone stairways and I don’t miss lugging up a heavier saw, trying not to scrape the walls while questioning all my life choices.

Blades are cheap, and I already run ridgid tools so batteries are very convenient. I find you have to square it up more often than a larger saw, but the convenience easily offsets that. I have a small 2x2 folding work table I use with it and it is great for doing window and door trim in narrower rooms and hallways or kitchens filled with boxed up cabinets where space and maneuverability is a priority.

I work by myself and do smaller finish jobs so if you are solo I would recommend the ridgid for anything but framing. If you are running a crew and have more a production mindset on site for weeks, dewalt all the way. It is more robust and can do more things quickly. You can build an entire house with the dewalt, but banging out a kitchen or just trim, love the ridgid.

Finally, I love a Bosch miter saw in the shop, but find them VERY heavy lugging around in the field. You can get your hands on all of these at Home Depot and get a feel for weight and compactness before you buy. Good luck out there!

10” Metabo hpt cordless sliding miter saw. Also has an ac adapter to run corded.

Are you carrying it to the job site? I dont find any of them particularly difficult to get in and out of the van. The 10" Bosch is a good option.

Dewalt 12 inch compound sliding MS is the best miter saw, hands down.